Firelight in a Kumaon Homestay This New Year

The fire is the first thing you notice. In a mountain homestay on a winter night, everything gathers around it: the family, the guests, the dog, the kettle, the conversation. Outside, the stars are hard and bright, and the cold is sharp enough to make your breath smoke. Inside, someone is turning rotis on the tawa, someone else is telling a story about a leopard seen on the path last week, and the year is ending without a countdown in sight. This is a guide to spending New Year by firelight in a homestay, not a club.

Why a homestay

Homestays have grown across India’s hills over the last decade, from Himachal and Uttarakhand to Sikkim, Meghalaya, Kodagu and the Nilgiris. They range from a spare room in a farmhouse to purpose-built cottages run by local families. What they share is a sense of being someone’s guest rather than a hotel’s customer. You eat what the family eats, you hear about their lives, and you get a glimpse of how people live in the mountains through the winter.

At New Year, this matters. A club offers a party; a homestay offers belonging, even if only for a few nights. There may be music, but it is more likely to be someone singing along to an old song than a DJ.

Where to go: Kumaon

For this piece, we focus on Kumaon, the eastern region of Uttarakhand, which has some of the best-known homestay areas in the Himalaya. Its hills are lower and gentler than the high ranges to the north, covered in oak, rhododendron and pine forests, with terraced fields and stone villages. On clear winter days, you can see a long line of snow peaks from many ridges, including Nanda Devi and the Panchachuli peaks, depending on where you are.

Areas around Mukteshwar, Ramgarh, Binsar, Almora, Kausani and the villages of the Kumaon hills have homestays of every kind, from simple rooms to restored stone houses. Many are a short drive from the better-known towns of Nainital and Almora but feel worlds away.

What a day looks like

Mornings in the Kumaon hills in December start cold and clear. You wake to birdsong and perhaps frost on the grass, and a cup of tea brought to your door. After breakfast, which might be parathas with fresh curd and pickle, you could walk through the village, along a forest trail or up to a viewpoint for the Himalayan panorama.

Afternoons are for sitting in the sun. Many homestays have terraces or gardens where you can read, nap or watch the light move across the valley. You might help in the kitchen, learn to make a local dish, or visit a nearby temple.

As the sun goes down, the cold arrives quickly. That is when the fire is lit, whether in a traditional hearth, a wood stove or an outdoor bonfire, and the evening begins.

Food by the fire

Kumaoni food is hearty, simple and well suited to winter. Look for bhatt ki churkani, a dish made from black soybeans; aloo ke gutke, spiced potatoes; ras, a mixed lentil dish; madua (finger millet) rotis; and bal mithai, the chocolate-brown fudge coated in sugar balls that is a speciality of Almora. Many homestays grow their own vegetables and serve them fresh. Dinner might be served by the fire, on a low table, with the family.

New Year’s Eve, homestay style

There is no fixed formula. Some homestays organise a special dinner for guests, with a bonfire and music. Others simply carry on as usual, with perhaps a cake at midnight for those who are still awake. You might find yourself playing cards with other guests, listening to the host’s stories about the village, or stepping outside to look at the stars, which are astonishingly bright on a clear mountain night.

What you will not find, in most places, is noise. If you are up at midnight, it might be in near silence, with only the crackle of the fire and the occasional dog barking in the distance.

Being a good guest

A homestay is someone’s home, so behave as you would in a friend’s house. Ask before playing loud music, respect household rules, and be considerate about meal times. Many homestays are in villages with conservative traditions, so dress modestly and be mindful of local customs. Ask before photographing people, especially women and elders.

Water and electricity can be limited in mountain villages, especially in winter, so use them carefully. Do not leave rubbish behind; carry plastic back to the town if you can. If you are going on walks, ask your hosts about safe routes, as wildlife, including leopards, is present in these forests.

Choosing a homestay

Look for places with recent reviews, clear information on heating, hot water and meals, and good directions. Heating varies a lot; some places have room heaters or fireplaces, others rely on extra blankets. Ask directly. Check whether meals are included, as in remote villages there may be no restaurants nearby.

Book early. Good homestays in the Kumaon hills fill up for the New Year week. Confirm road access, too, as some homestays are a short walk from the nearest road, which can be tricky with heavy luggage.

Getting there

The nearest railway station for much of Kumaon is Kathgodam, which is connected to Delhi by overnight and day trains. From Kathgodam, taxis and buses climb into the hills. The drive from Delhi takes much of a day, depending on traffic and route. Pantnagar has a small airport with limited flights.

Winter driving in the hills requires care. Roads can be icy in the early morning, especially in shaded stretches, and occasional snow can close higher routes. Travel in daylight and allow plenty of time.

Packing

Pack proper winter clothing: thermals, a warm jacket, a woollen cap, gloves and warm socks. Bring sturdy shoes for walking, a torch for night-time trips outside, and any medication you need. A power bank is useful, as power cuts happen.

A note for 2021

Check the latest travel guidelines for Uttarakhand before you go, as rules may change around the holidays. Many homestays are small, family-run businesses that have had a hard two years, so if you have to cancel, do so as early as possible.

Why it works

A New Year by the fire is not about missing out. It is about choosing a different kind of celebration: one built around warmth, food, conversation and the simple pleasure of being somewhere beautiful with people who live there. You may not remember the exact moment the clock struck midnight. You will remember the fire.