Editor's Letter: The Char Dham Yatra Returns (2022)

Dear reader,

Every spring, as the snow begins to retreat from the high valleys of Garhwal, a question starts to travel through households across India: are we going this year? For millions of families, the Char Dham Yatra, the pilgrimage to Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath, is not just a trip. It is a promise made to parents, a vow fulfilled, a journey planned for years. For two years, the pandemic made that promise hard to keep. This April, as the temples prepare to open their doors for the season, it looks as though the yatra will return in full.

This issue is for everyone making that journey, whether for the first time or the tenth, and for those who simply want to understand why it matters so much.

A pilgrimage and a mountain journey

The Char Dham of Uttarakhand, sometimes called the Chota Char Dham to distinguish it from the four great dhams at the corners of India, takes pilgrims to the sources of sacred rivers and to two of the most revered shrines of Shiva and Vishnu. Yamunotri honours the goddess Yamuna; Gangotri, the goddess Ganga; Kedarnath is one of the twelve jyotirlingas of Shiva; and Badrinath is among the most important shrines of Vishnu.

It is also one of the great mountain journeys in India. The roads climb through deep river gorges, past terraced villages and forests of deodar and oak, to temples set beneath snow peaks. Even for travellers who do not share the faith, the landscape and the devotion of the pilgrims make it unforgettable.

What is in this issue

Our April pages begin with the history of the Chota Char Dham Yatra, tracing the tradition associated with Adi Shankaracharya and the centuries of pilgrimage since. We then follow the traditional sequence of the journey, from west to east: Yamunotri first, then Gangotri, then Kedarnath, and finally Badrinath. Each of these articles from our archive introduces the shrine, its legends and the approach.

For many pilgrims the journey begins in Rishikesh or Haridwar, and our guide to travelling around Rishikesh covers the town that serves as the gateway to the hills.

Four new pieces focus on the practical and the personal. The first compares the helicopter and the road to Kedarnath, honestly and without promotion. The second explains registration, weather and the crowds, including the queues that surprise first-time pilgrims. The third looks at Yamunotri beyond the package tour, for those who want to linger. The fourth suggests a rest day in Ukhimath, the winter seat of Lord Kedarnath, as a gentle pause in a demanding journey.

A season of high demand

After two quiet years, many expect this to be a very busy season. Authorities in Uttarakhand have spoken about registration and the management of pilgrim numbers, and details may change as the season approaches. We have not printed specific limits, fees or dates, because they are announced each year and may be revised. Please check official Uttarakhand government and temple committee sources before you travel, and book accommodation and transport early.

Travel with care

The Char Dham is a high-altitude journey. Kedarnath sits at around 3,500 metres, and the trek to reach it is long and steep. Yamunotri also involves a trek. Weather can change quickly, with rain, cold and sometimes snow even in May and June. The monsoon months bring landslides and road closures.

Please take this seriously. Consult a doctor before travelling, especially if you are elderly or have heart or lung conditions. Build in time to acclimatise, carry warm and waterproof clothing, and do not push yourself or your family beyond what is safe. Many pilgrims travel with elderly parents; plan their days with care, and consider ponies, palkis or helicopters where appropriate.

Respect for the mountains

The yatra brings huge numbers of people to fragile mountain environments. We ask every reader to travel lightly: carry your waste back, avoid single-use plastic, and respect local communities who make the journey possible. The porters, pony handlers, cooks and drivers who serve pilgrims work long hours in hard conditions. A word of thanks, fair payment and patience go a long way.

Why we go

Ask pilgrims why they make this journey and you will hear many answers: devotion, gratitude, a vow, a parent’s wish. Ask travellers and you will hear about the mountains, the rivers, the sense of being part of something old. Both are true. The Char Dham is a place where faith and landscape meet, and where the journey matters as much as the arrival.

The towns along the way

The yatra is not only about the four shrines. The towns along the route have their own character and significance. Devprayag, where the Alaknanda and Bhagirathi meet to form the Ganga, is one of the most striking confluences in the Himalaya. Uttarkashi, on the way to Gangotri, is an old pilgrim town with temples and ashrams of its own. Guptkashi and Ukhimath, near Kedarnath, and Joshimath, below Badrinath, are places where pilgrims rest, regroup and often find unexpected moments of quiet. We hope you will give them some of your time rather than treating them only as places to sleep. Many families find that the conversations and small discoveries in these towns become some of the most cherished memories of the whole yatra.

Planning thoughts

If you are planning a yatra this year, a few thoughts from our team. Do not try to rush all four dhams in a few days; the distances are long and the roads slow. Many pilgrims choose to visit one or two dhams on a trip rather than all four. Build rest days into your plan. Keep your plans flexible to allow for weather and road closures. And travel with patience, because the crowds, the queues and the long drives are part of the experience.

Thank you

Our thanks go to the writers whose work fills these pages, and to the many readers who have shared their own yatra experiences with us over the years. If you make the journey this season, we would love to hear how it went.

May your journey be safe, and may you return home with the peace you went looking for.

Warmly,

Khushi Anand, Editor