Auli Without Skiing: A Winter Guide for Non-Skiers

Auli has a reputation, and the reputation is skiing. Search for it and you will find slopes, chairlifts, ski courses and national winter games. All of that is real. But many of the people who make the long drive up from the plains in January never put on a pair of skis, or try for an afternoon and decide that once is enough.

If you are one of them, this guide is for you. Auli is a fine winter destination even if you never leave the flat ground.

Why go at all

The answer is the view. Auli sits on a high shoulder above Joshimath, in Chamoli district, and faces some of the biggest mountains in the Garhwal Himalaya. On a clear morning you can see a long line of peaks across the horizon, and the one people come for is Nanda Devi, at 7,816 metres the highest mountain entirely within India. Other summits often named from Auli include Trishul, Dronagiri, Kamet and Hathi Ghoda; local guides will happily point them out, and they do not always agree with each other.

In winter, with snow on the slopes and clear dry air, those views can be extraordinary. You do not need skis to enjoy them. You need an early alarm and a warm jacket.

Your first day: arrive and sit

Auli’s slopes range roughly from 2,500 to over 3,000 metres. If you have driven up in one or two long days from Rishikesh or Haridwar, your body will feel it. The best plan for the first afternoon is almost nothing: find a sunny spot, walk a little on flat ground, drink water and watch the light fade on the peaks.

It is worth knowing that the town below, long called Joshimath, was officially renamed Jyotirmath in 2023. It has also faced serious land subsidence in recent years. Be considerate when you pass through, follow local advisories and do not treat damaged homes as sights.

Your second day: the sunrise and a walk

Get up before dawn. The first light on Nanda Devi is the defining Auli experience, and it costs nothing. Many hotels have a terrace or viewpoint; otherwise walk a few minutes uphill from wherever you stay to a clear spot facing north-east.

After breakfast, take a walk. The obvious one is up through the forest to Gorson Bugyal, a high meadow a few kilometres above the slopes. In winter the path is snowy and can be icy, so go with a local guide and proper boots. It is a gentle half-day for most fit walkers, with oak and conifer forest, silence and more big mountain views. We have written a whole piece on it: One meadow you walk to.

If Gorson feels like too much, shorter walks along the edges of the slopes are rewarding too. Simply wandering away from the busiest beginner area will give you quiet and space.

Watch, then try, if you like

The beginner slopes are the social heart of Auli in winter. Families from Delhi and Lucknow, students on their first trip to snow, instructors in bright jackets, children falling over and laughing. Sitting nearby with a cup of tea is genuine entertainment.

If you are curious, try a single short session. Many instructors offer an hour or two for complete beginners on the gentlest slope, with hired boots and skis. Agree the price, duration and what equipment is included before you start, check that boots fit properly and wear a helmet. You will probably learn the snowplough and fall over a few times. That is the whole point.

You may also be offered sledges, snow tubes or snow bikes. Choose sensibly, agree prices upfront and avoid anything that looks badly maintained.

The chairlift and the cable car

A chairlift runs along part of the slopes in the season and gives a different view of the mountains without any effort. Check whether it is operating when you arrive; it can stop for maintenance or weather.

The long cable car from Joshimath up to Auli was famous for years. It was suspended after the 2023 subsidence crisis and its status has been uncertain since. Do not build your plans around it; check locally.

Slow afternoons

Non-skiers have one big advantage: the afternoons. When skiers are still on the slopes, you can:

Sit on a terrace and read with the mountains in front of you.
Walk down a little way through the forest and back.
Visit the artificial lake near the top of the slopes, built to feed snowmaking, though whether it is frozen, full or fenced varies.
Talk to the people who work here: cooks, guides, instructors and the shopkeepers selling woollens. Many are from villages in the valley below and have stories worth hearing.

Evenings are early and cold. Bring a book, a pack of cards and a thermal for sleeping.

A day trip from the town

If you have an extra day and the roads are open, the temples of Joshimath itself are worth a visit, especially the Narasimha temple, associated with the winter seat of Badrinath’s deity. The Badrinath temple itself is closed in winter and the road beyond can be shut by snow, so do not plan to drive towards it.

Practical notes

Getting there: The usual route is by road from Rishikesh or Haridwar, a long mountain drive of roughly ten to twelve hours or more, often split over two days. The nearest airport is Dehradun’s Jolly Grant; the nearest major railheads are Rishikesh and Haridwar.
Roads: The highway into the upper Alaknanda valley is prone to landslides and closures, especially after heavy rain or snow. Build a buffer day into your plan. See our Avalanche, road and permit notes.
Cold: January nights are well below freezing. Pack layers, gloves, a warm hat and waterproof boots.
Sun: Snow glare at altitude is fierce. Sunglasses and strong sunscreen are essential.
Altitude: Go slowly on day one, drink water and skip alcohol until you feel settled.
Money and signal: ATMs and mobile networks can be unreliable in the mountains. Carry enough cash and tell someone your plans.

Not skiing is a choice

Auli is marketed as India’s ski capital, and for skiers it is a lovely place to learn. But the mountains do not care whether you ski. Nanda Devi will look exactly the same from a terrace with a cup of chai in your hand as it does from the top of a run. Give yourself permission to enjoy it slowly.