Most snow destinations in India are places you drive to. You get out of the car, the snow is there, and the experience begins at the edge of the car park. That is part of their charm, and part of their problem.
Gorson Bugyal is different. You cannot drive to it. You have to walk.
What is a bugyal?
In Garhwal and Kumaon, a bugyal is a high-altitude alpine meadow, above or among the treeline. In summer, these meadows are green and full of flowers, and herders bring their sheep, goats and cattle up to graze. In winter, they lie under snow, broad and white and silent.
Gorson Bugyal sits above Auli, in Chamoli district, at a height often given as roughly 3,000 to 3,100 metres or a little more. It is reached by a trail that climbs from the upper part of the Auli slopes through forest. The distance is usually described as about three to four kilometres each way, but in snow, distance matters less than conditions.
Why go in winter
In summer, Gorson is a lovely meadow walk. In winter it becomes something quieter and grander.
The trail through the forest is often under snow, with branches heavy with it and the sound of your own breathing loud in the cold. When you reach the open meadow, the views widen across a sweep of the Garhwal Himalaya. Peaks commonly named from here include Nanda Devi, Trishul, Dronagiri, Kamet and others; your guide will point them out.
And there are far fewer people than on the slopes below. Most visitors to Auli never leave the area around the chairlift and the beginner runs.
The walk itself
The usual start is from the upper part of Auli, around the top of the slopes. From there, the path leads into a forest of oak and conifers, climbing steadily. In snow, the gradient feels steeper than it is.
After the forest, the path emerges into open meadow. In good conditions you can wander a little further across the slope for wider views. Some trekkers continue beyond Gorson towards a small lake known as Tali or Chattrakund, or onward on longer treks such as the routes towards Kuari Pass, but those are serious undertakings in winter and should only be attempted with an experienced team and proper equipment.
For most walkers, the round trip to Gorson is a half-day outing. In deep or fresh snow it may take much longer. Plan to be back well before dark.
Do I need a guide?
In winter, yes, for most people.
The trail is not always easy to follow under fresh snow. Weather can change quickly, and whiteout conditions make navigation difficult. A local guide knows the route, the conditions and when to turn back. Many guides are from the villages below Auli and depend on this work.
Ask your hotel or a recognised local operator to arrange a guide. Agree the fee, route and turnaround time in advance. Our editorial policy is not to quote prices, which change from season to season.
What to wear and carry
- Waterproof boots with good grip and ankle support. Gumboots can be hired locally but are not ideal for long walks.
- Gaiters or snow-proof trousers, so snow does not get into your boots.
- Layers: thermal base layer, fleece, insulated jacket and a windproof shell.
- Gloves, a warm hat, sunglasses and strong sunscreen.
- Water in an insulated bottle or thermos, and snacks.
- Trekking poles. Very useful on icy or snowy slopes.
- Microspikes or crampons, if your guide advises. Icy patches can be dangerous.
- A charged phone and power bank. Signal may be patchy.
Altitude and fitness
The walk adds a few hundred metres of height to the already high base of Auli. Do not attempt it on your first day if you have come up from the plains. Spend at least one night at Auli first, take a short walk, and see how you feel.
Walk slowly, stop often, and drink water. If anyone in your group feels unwell, with a worsening headache, nausea or confusion, turn back and descend.
Weather and safety
Always check the forecast before setting out. Avoid the walk during or immediately after heavy snowfall, when the risk of slips and avalanches on steeper slopes increases. If your guide decides to turn back, accept the decision without argument.
The meadow is open and exposed. Wind chill can be severe. Watch for frostbite on fingers, toes, ears and nose, especially in children.
Read our Avalanche, road and permit notes for more on winter safety, and check locally whether any permission is needed for walks in forest areas around Auli; rules can change and the forest department may restrict access in some conditions.
What you might see
Winter is quiet, but not empty. Look for tracks in fresh snow: birds, small mammals and sometimes larger animals that pass through the forest at night. Himalayan birds such as the monal, Uttarakhand’s state bird, live in these forests, though seeing one is a matter of luck and patience rather than something to expect. Listen as well as look. On a still morning the silence of the meadow, broken only by wind and the creak of snow underfoot, is one of the best things about the walk. Keep a respectful distance from any wildlife and never feed animals.
Leave the meadow as you found it
Bugyals are fragile. Even under snow, the soil and plants beneath are easily damaged. Stay on the trail where possible, carry out all your rubbish including food wrappers, and do not build fires.
In summer, these meadows are grazing grounds for local herders. Treat them as someone’s working landscape, not just a viewpoint.
Making it part of your trip
Gorson Bugyal is perfect for a second or third day in Auli, after you have acclimatised. Pair it with a slow morning on the slopes, or with a rest day after. See Auli for people who do not ski all day and A rest day is part of the trip.
And if anyone tells you Auli is only for skiers, take them to Gorson. Some places should be walked to.
More from Issue 81
- Issue 81 index: Snow Destinations of India
- A guest night in a wooden house
- Avalanche, road and permit notes
- The town to skip if the road is shut
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