November 2024: Yoga Retreat Issue

Welcome to the November 2024 issue of Travel Viewpoint, Issue 67, devoted to the yoga retreat. As the monsoon fades and the air in the foothills turns crisp and clear, November becomes one of the loveliest months of the year to slow down in India. The rivers run clean after the rains, the mountains step out of the clouds, and ashrams and retreat centres from the Ganga to the Dhauladhar settle into their calm winter rhythm. This issue is for anyone who has thought about unrolling a mat somewhere quieter than home, whether for a weekend, a week or a month.

India is, of course, the birthplace of yoga, and few journeys feel as natural here as one taken to learn it at its source. But a yoga retreat is not only about postures. It is about early mornings, simple food, silence, chanting at dusk, long walks by a river and the strange luxury of having nowhere else to be. In the pages below we have tried to capture all of that, along with the practical advice that makes the difference between a restorative stay and a stressful one.

Below you will find every story in this issue, with a short note on what each one offers.

Editor’s letter

Khushi Anand writes about why a yoga retreat is really about the art of arriving: switching off the phone, learning to wake before the sun, and discovering that the hardest pose on any mat is simply sitting still. She also shares the small moment by the Ganga that she still carries with her.

Best Yoga and Meditation Retreats in India to Visit This November

Our round-up of yoga and meditation retreats across the country that are at their best this month, from the ashrams of the north to the coastal and hill retreats further south. If you are still deciding where to go, start here.

Women-Only Wellness Getaways Worth Taking

A guide for women who want to travel, practise and rest in a supportive space. This feature looks at the kinds of women-only wellness stays available in India and what to consider when choosing one.

How to Plan a Budget Yoga Retreat in India

A retreat does not need to cost a fortune. This practical guide explains how to plan a meaningful stay without overspending, from choosing the right kind of ashram to travelling smartly and eating simply.

Why the Mountains Are the Best Place to Meditate

Thin air, long silences and wide horizons: this reflective piece explores why the Himalaya have drawn seekers for thousands of years, and why the mountains still make it easier to turn inward.

What It’s Like to Spend 10 Days in Silence

A first-person account of a ten-day silent meditation course, the kind of experience that sounds impossible until you try it. Honest, moving and practical, it is essential reading if you are curious about Vipassana-style retreats.

New this month: Rishikesh to Haridwar Along the Ganga

Our lead feature follows the Ganga from the suspension bridges of Rishikesh down to the ghats of Haridwar, the one route that explains why yoga in India is inseparable from the river, the ashram and the evening aarti. It covers Tapovan, the Beatles Ashram, Parmarth Niketan and Har ki Pauri, with tips on travelling the stretch slowly.

New this month: Three Days at a Rishikesh Ashram, Not a Checklist

Rather than a list of sights, this story describes three days lived to an ashram’s timetable: the wake-up bell, the morning practice, the silent breakfast, the afternoon lecture and the long evening by the river. It is the best way to know whether ashram life is for you before you commit to a longer stay.

New this month: What to Skip on Your First Yoga Retreat in India

Overpacking, overbooking and over-ambitious expectations are the three classic mistakes of a first retreat. This candid feature tells you what to leave out, which shortcuts to avoid and how to choose a teacher or school with care, so that your first experience is a good one.

Less travelled: Beyond Rishikesh, a Quieter Yoga Stay in Dharamkot and Bhagsu

High above McLeod Ganj in Himachal Pradesh, the villages of Dharamkot and Bhagsu have become a gentler alternative to Rishikesh, with forest paths, small yoga and meditation schools and views of the Dhauladhar range. This piece explains what to expect, when to go and how to keep your stay simple.

New this month: Food, Stay and Getting Around on a Yoga Retreat in India

The practical side of a retreat: what you will eat at an ashram, how sattvic food works, the range of places to stay from dormitories to boutique retreats, and how to move between airports, railway stations and the hills. Read this before you book anything.

How to use this issue

If you are planning your first retreat, read the editor’s letter first, then the round-up of retreats and the guide to budget planning. Then turn to our three-day ashram story to see what daily life feels like, and finish with what to skip and the practical guide to food, stay and transport. If you have been before and want somewhere quieter, go straight to the piece on Dharamkot and Bhagsu.

Travelling in November

November is a lovely month in the Ganga valley around Rishikesh and Haridwar. Days are usually pleasant and sunny, while early mornings and evenings can be cool, so carry a light shawl or jacket for sunrise practice and aarti. In the higher villages of Himachal Pradesh, such as Dharamkot, nights get properly cold as winter approaches, and some small schools and cafes begin to close for the season, so check ahead before you travel. Wherever you go, pack modest, comfortable clothing, a refillable water bottle and an open mind.

A word on choosing well

Yoga in India ranges from traditional ashrams run as spiritual communities to commercial schools and luxury wellness resorts. All can be wonderful, but they are not the same thing. Read reviews, ask about the teachers’ training and lineage, understand the house rules before you arrive, and never feel pressured into paying for more than you need. Our features in this issue are designed to help you choose with confidence.

Thank you for reading

As always, we would love to hear from you. If you have spent time at an ashram, joined a retreat or simply practised by the river at dawn, write to us and tell us about it. Your stories help shape future issues of Travel Viewpoint. Until next month, breathe slowly and travel well.