Issue 91 · November 2026
This month we travel slowly through Coorg and Chikmagalur, the shade-grown coffee highlands of Karnataka’s Western Ghats.
Cover story
Coorg & Chikmagalur
A tale of two Western Ghats highlands that shape India’s coffee identity.
Sanctuary rules and the gates
A village on the edge of the water
A guest’s first pelican
A hide, a notebook, no checklist boast
One wetland that is not famous yet
What November migrants actually do
Chilika and the boats that know the birds
Bharatpur at dawn, not at noon
Birding season index
Editor’s letter: Birding Season
Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary
Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary
Wildlife Sanctuaries Reopening in October: What to See and When to Visit
As the monsoon clouds begin to retreat and the landscape dries under a crisp October sun,...
A guest week in a family house
A guest post on spending Diwali week in a family home: the great clean, Dhanteras, rangoli,...
Holi in Braj 2026: A Guide to Mathura, Vrindavan & Barsana
Every year, somewhere between Basant Panchami and the full moon of Phalgun, the stretch of western...
Destinations
The Town You Sleep In
Why the base town shapes a monsoon waterfall trip more than any single fall, what to look for, and towns in Karnataka, Kerala and Goa worth considering.
Destinations
One village ghat upriver
Destinations
Train versus road that week
Destinations
Markets before the 20th, not on it
SERIES
Journeys Worth Discovering
Explore inspiring destinations, memorable journeys and travel stories from across India and beyond.
Explore destinations
