Editor's Letter: Meghalaya's Caves

Dear readers,

There is a part of India that lies beneath the surface. In the hills of Meghalaya, rain has been working on limestone for millions of years, dissolving rock, carving passages and filling chambers with strange formations. The result is one of the most remarkable cave systems in Asia. Some caves are easy to visit, with paths and lights; others stretch for kilometres into the dark and have been explored only by experienced cavers.

Our November 2022 issue goes underground. It is dedicated to Meghalaya’s caves, from the famous show caves near Sohra to the long, wild systems of the Jaintia and Garo Hills. It is also an invitation to see Meghalaya differently: not only as a land of clouds, waterfalls and living root bridges, but as a place where the story of the earth is written in stone.

Why caves, and why now

November is one of the best months to visit Meghalaya. The monsoon, which makes this one of the wettest regions on earth, has passed. Skies are clearer, roads are drier and the hills are still green. Water levels inside caves begin to fall, making some passages more accessible. The cool, pleasant weather is ideal for walking and exploring.

Caves in Meghalaya also deserve more attention than they usually get. Many visitors see one show cave on a day trip from Shillong and move on. But the state’s caves are internationally significant. Teams of local and international cavers have mapped hundreds of kilometres of passages over the past few decades, and some of the longest caves in the Indian subcontinent are found here. Scientists have also studied cave formations here to understand ancient climate; a stalagmite from Mawmluh Cave near Sohra helped give its name to the Meghalayan Age, a recently defined stage in the geological time scale.

How caves form here

Meghalaya’s caves are mostly found in limestone, a rock that slowly dissolves in rainwater made slightly acidic by carbon dioxide from the air and soil. The state receives enormous amounts of rain, especially on its southern slopes facing Bangladesh, and that water seeps through cracks in the rock, widening them over time into passages and chambers. As water drips into open spaces, it deposits calcium carbonate, creating stalactites hanging from the ceiling, stalagmites rising from the floor, columns, flowstones and delicate curtains.

The process is unimaginably slow. A stalactite may grow only a small fraction of a millimetre in a year, so the formations you see may represent thousands of years of growth. That is one reason why touching or breaking them causes lasting damage.

Who explores these caves

Much of what we know about Meghalaya’s caves comes from long-running expeditions, often organised by local caving groups working with international cavers since the early 1990s. They have surveyed passages, drawn maps and documented the caves’ wildlife and formations. Their work has put Meghalaya firmly on the world caving map, and it continues today.

What is in this issue

We begin with a series of features on individual caves, revisiting and updating material from our archive. These cover Krem Chympe, Krem Umthloo, Krem Liat Prah, Mawsmai, Krem Mawmluh, Tetengkol-Balwakol and Siju. Each has its own character, from the easily accessible Mawsmai to the vast systems of the Jaintia Hills, which are for experienced cavers only.

Then we follow the road from Shillong to Sohra, the route that, for most travellers, is the gateway to Meghalaya’s caves. Our writer explains what to see on the way, how the landscape changes and why this road helps you understand the geology beneath your feet.

Finally, we offer a three-day plan for exploring Meghalaya’s caves without turning the trip into a checklist. It balances show caves with viewpoints, waterfalls and villages, and leaves time to slow down.

A note on safety

Caves are beautiful but can be dangerous. Passages can be narrow, slippery and dark. Water levels can rise quickly after rain. It is easy to get lost. Please visit only caves that are open to the public, or go with experienced, licensed local guides. Never enter a cave alone, always carry a reliable light source with spare batteries, and tell someone where you are going.

Deeper caves in the Jaintia and Garo Hills require proper equipment, training and permission. They are not suitable for casual visits. Respect the guidance of local communities and authorities.

A note on respect

Many caves in Meghalaya lie on land owned by local communities, clans or individuals, under the state’s traditional land systems. Some caves are considered sacred. Always ask permission where needed, pay any entry fees, follow local rules and leave nothing behind. Do not touch formations: stalactites and stalagmites take thousands of years to grow, and the oils from human hands can stop their growth or damage them.

Cave ecosystems are also fragile. Bats, cave fish, insects and other creatures live in darkness and are easily disturbed. Keep noise low and avoid shining lights directly at animals.

Beyond the caves

While caves are the focus of this issue, Meghalaya offers much more. Sohra, also known as Cherrapunji, is famous for its waterfalls and the living root bridges of the surrounding villages. Mawlynnong, often described as one of the cleanest villages in Asia, lies near the Bangladesh border. Dawki’s river is famous for its clear water in the dry season. Shillong has its own charm, with colonial-era buildings, music and markets.

We hope that our cave stories encourage you to spend longer in Meghalaya, travel slowly and connect with the people and the land.

The meaning of exploration

Exploring a cave changes your sense of scale. Walking into the darkness, watching your light catch the glitter of calcite, hearing water dripping in the silence, you become aware of the immense slowness of geological time. These caves were forming long before humans walked the earth. They will continue long after us. It is a humbling and inspiring experience.

We would love to hear from readers who have visited Meghalaya’s caves, and we welcome your stories and photographs. As always, travel responsibly and with curiosity.

With warm wishes for your travels,

Khushi Anand, Editor