Pune’s favourite weekend climb is also one of the most storied forts of the Maratha age. Start early, carry water, and save room for a bowl of curd at the top.
Adding to the attraction of the Pune city is the Sinhagad Fort, which lies in the vicinity of the city. The fort stands perched on a hill, at an altitude of approximately 700 m above the landscape that surrounds it (roughly 1,300 m above sea level). The height at which the fort stands has resulted in its being a very popular trekking destination amongst adventure enthusiasts. Amongst the numerous treks that lead to Sinhagad Fort, the most famous is the long ridge walk from Katraj to Sinhagad.
Since the fort is approximately 25-35 km from central Pune, depending on where you start, it is also quite popular as a picnic spot. Once known throughout the region for its strength, Sinhagad Fort has been worn down by time and today stands largely in ruins. It has witnessed a number of battles, of which the most memorable is the one in which Tanaji Malusare, a general in Shivaji’s army, recaptured the fort.
Inside the fort are the memorials of Tanaji Malusare and of Rajaram (younger son of Shivaji). On the fort stand the bungalows associated with Lokmanya Tilak, the great freedom fighter, and G.D. Madgulkar, the famous Marathi poet. The slopes of Sinhagad have long been used by the National Defence Academy for training. Visitors to Pune make sure to see this fort at least once.
The Lion’s Fort
The fort was earlier known as Kondhana. The best-known story of Sinhagad dates from 1670, when Tanaji Malusare led a night assault up its cliffs to win it back from the Mughals. Tanaji was killed in the fight, and Shivaji is said to have mourned, “Gad aala, pan simha gela” (“The fort is won, but the lion is lost”). Tradition holds that the fort was renamed Sinhagad, the Lion’s Fort, in his honour. Some historians note the name may be older; treat the renaming as tradition rather than settled fact. A monitor lizard, the famous ghorpad, is said to have helped his men scale the walls, another story better enjoyed than examined.
What to see on top
- Kalyan Darwaja and Pune Darwaja: the two main gateways, each a short, steep climb through layered walls.
- Tanaji’s memorial: a bust and memorial near the spot where he is believed to have fallen.
- Rajaram’s samadhi: the memorial to Shivaji’s younger son, who died at Sinhagad in 1700.
- Dev Taake: an old rock-cut water tank once used for drinking water.
- The cliffs: the views over Khadakwasla Dam and the Sahyadri ridges are the real reward, especially on a clear morning.
How to reach
From Pune, the road runs south-west past Khadakwasla towards the base village of Donje (Golewadi) and on up a ghat road to a parking area near the top. Private car or two-wheeler is the easiest option; local buses run to the base area, but check current services. Hikers can walk up from the base on a well-used trail, about two hours for most people. The Katraj-Sinhagad ridge trek is a long, demanding walk best done with a group that knows the route, often at night under a full moon.
Vehicle access to the top has been restricted at times; check the current rules before you drive up.
Best time
The monsoon, roughly June to September, is the most beautiful time, when the fort is wrapped in cloud and the hills turn green, but trails are slippery and the road can be crowded. October to February offers clear views and cool mornings. In April and May, start at first light: by late morning the climb is hot and exposed.
Weekends are very busy; a weekday sunrise visit is quieter.
Where to stay and eat
Most visitors stay in Pune and do Sinhagad as a half-day trip. There are also simple homestays and resorts around Khadakwasla and the base villages.
At the top, small stalls run by local families sell the snacks Sinhagad is famous for: pithla-bhakri (gram-flour curry with millet flatbread), kanda bhaji (onion fritters), and cool curd in clay pots. Bring cash.
Good to know
The stalls at the top are a big part of Sinhagad’s charm, but they also produce litter; take your rubbish back down with you. On monsoon weekends traffic on the ghat road can back up for hours, so go early or on a weekday. If you are not a regular hiker, the walk from the base is steep but manageable at a steady pace, with rest stops. Groups from Pune run guided night treks on the Katraj ridge; join an experienced group rather than attempting it alone. Mobile coverage is generally fair near the top.
Tips
- Carry at least two litres of water per person in summer.
- Wear shoes with grip; the steps and rock are worn smooth.
- Respect the memorials and avoid littering; the fort is a protected monument.
- Monkeys are bold; keep food out of sight.
- Pair it with our guide to forts you can do before lunch, and read about Shivaji’s birthplace at Shivneri Fort and his capital at Raigad Fort.
A sunrise climb
The classic Pune ritual is to drive out in the dark, start walking from the base by headtorch, and reach the top as the sun rises over the ridges. In winter, the valleys below often fill with mist. At the top, the stalls are just opening, and the first glass of hot tea with a plate of kanda bhaji tastes better than anything in the city. It is worth every minute of the early alarm.
Why it matters
For many Punekars, Sinhagad is the first fort they climb as schoolchildren and the one they come back to all their lives: on monsoon weekends, at sunrise before work, with visiting friends. It is Pune’s backyard history lesson, and its best viewpoint.
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