Lohagad Fort from Pune: A Climb Before Lunch

You do not need a whole weekend to climb a Maratha fort. Catch an early local train out of Pune, climb Lohagad, and be eating lunch in Lonavala by one.

Pune is surrounded by forts. Some, like Raigad and Shivneri, deserve a full day. Sinhagad is the city’s own backyard fort, much loved and often crowded. But if you want a fort that is easy to reach by public transport, has a satisfying climb, huge views and a dash of drama, and can be done before lunch, our pick is Lohagad, the Iron Fort, above the village of Malavli near Lonavala.

Why Lohagad

Lohagad stands at roughly 1,000 metres above sea level on a spur of the Sahyadris, overlooking the Pavana valley. It is one of the most accessible forts in the region: a well-made path and steps lead to the top, with four large gateways on the way. The climb is real exercise but not technical, suitable for most reasonably fit people, including older children.

Its most famous feature is the Vinchu Kata, the “scorpion’s tail”, a long, narrow fortified ridge that stretches out from the main fort like a sting. Walking out along it, with sheer drops either side, is the highlight of the visit.

A short history

Lohagad’s history goes back centuries before the Marathas; the nearby Bhaje and Bedse caves show the area was on an important trade route from the Konkan coast to the Deccan in the early centuries CE. The fort passed through many hands. Shivaji took it, and it was among the forts he handed to the Mughals under the Treaty of Purandar in 1665, before the Marathas won it back. In the Peshwa period, it is said to have been used by the minister Nana Phadnavis for a time, and some of its structures date from then. The British took it in 1818.

The morning plan

Early: take one of the first Pune-Lonavala local trains from Pune Junction or Shivajinagar to Malavli. The journey takes roughly an hour and a half; check the current suburban timetable.
From Malavli: walk or take a shared vehicle through Bhaje village towards the base of the fort. Many people stop at the Bhaje caves on the way up or on the way back.
The climb: from the base at Lohagadwadi, the stepped path climbs through the gateways, the Ganesh, Narayan, Hanuman and Maha Darwaja, to the top. Allow about an hour, more if you stop often.
On top: walk around the plateau, see the water tanks, the small temple and dargah, and walk out along the Vinchu Kata. Allow one to two hours.
Back down: return to Malavli and take a train on to Lonavala for lunch, or back to Pune.

If you drive, the base can be reached by road from the old Mumbai-Pune highway near Malavli, and there is parking near Lohagadwadi. On weekends, start very early; the access road gets congested.

Bhaje caves

The Bhaje caves, on the way up, are a group of rock-cut Buddhist caves, among the earliest in western India, often dated to around the second century BCE. The large chaitya (prayer hall), with its horseshoe-shaped arch, wooden beams and a cluster of stupas carved in the rock, is remarkable. There are also fine early relief sculptures. A short climb of steps leads up to them, and they are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India; there is an entry fee.

What to look for on top

The summit plateau is larger than it looks from below. Look for the rock-cut water cisterns, some still holding water well into the dry season, which allowed a garrison to hold out under siege. There is a small temple and a dargah, both still visited by local worshippers. From the edges, the view takes in Visapur Fort, the Pavana reservoir, and on a clear day ridge after ridge of the Sahyadris. The fort walls on the Vinchu Kata are best appreciated from the far end, looking back at the main fort.

Best time

The monsoon, June to September, turns Lohagad into the most photographed fort around Pune: green, misty and alive with waterfalls. It is also the busiest season, with heavy crowds on weekends, slippery steps and sometimes temporary restrictions. October to February is clear and comfortable. In April and May, the heat makes the early-start plan essential; aim to be off the summit before late morning.

Where to stay and eat

You can do Lohagad as a day trip from Pune; there is no need to stay. If you prefer to stay, Lonavala and Khandala have a wide range of hotels, resorts and homestays, and simple homestays exist in the villages below the fort.

Small stalls near the base and on the way up sell nimbu pani (lemonade), kokum sherbet, tea, bhajjis and cut fruit. In Lonavala, try chikki, the town’s famous brittle of jaggery and nuts, sold in shops all over town.

Tips

Carry water; you will need more than you think.
Wear shoes with good grip; monsoon steps are slippery.
Stay well back from the edges on the Vinchu Kata, especially in mist or wind.
Watch for monkeys around food.
Take your rubbish back down.
Check the last train back to Pune if you are lingering.

Combine it

Visapur Fort stands on the next hill, larger and less visited, and can be combined with Lohagad for a longer day. Karla caves, with one of the largest rock-cut chaityas in India, are a short drive away. For a whole day further afield, see our day in the Deccan, back by night.

Back in time for lunch

The joy of Lohagad is how much it gives for a single morning: a train ride through the Sahyadri foothills, an ancient Buddhist cave, a long staircase through four gateways, and a walk along a stone scorpion’s tail in the sky. By lunchtime you are in Lonavala with a plate of hot food and a bag of chikki, wondering why you ever spent a Saturday morning in traffic.