Day Trip from Pune: Bhuleshwar, Jejuri, Morgaon

Leave Pune at dawn, and by nightfall you can see a carved hilltop temple, a town painted gold with turmeric, and one of Maharashtra’s most loved Ganesh shrines. This is a day in the Deccan.

Head south-east from Pune and the city drops away quickly. The land opens out into the Deccan plateau: wide, dry fields, low flat-topped hills, villages with stone temples and tamarind trees. In April it is hot and gold-brown, with the first mango stalls by the roadside. This circuit, Bhuleshwar, Jejuri and Morgaon, packs three very different temples into a long but comfortable day by car, back in Pune by night.

The plan at a glance

Early morning: Pune to Bhuleshwar temple, near Yavat.
Late morning: Bhuleshwar to Jejuri, climb to the Khandoba temple.
Afternoon: Jejuri to Morgaon, the Mayureshwar Ganesh temple.
Evening: back to Pune via Saswad.

The total distance is roughly 200 km. Allow ten to twelve hours, with breaks. Road conditions and routes change, so check a map on the day.

Bhuleshwar: a carved temple on a hilltop

Your first stop is the Bhuleshwar temple, a Shiva temple on a hilltop off the Pune-Solapur highway near Yavat, roughly 45-55 km from Pune. The temple is usually dated to around the thirteenth century, with later additions. From outside, it looks almost like a small fort, with a later outer wall. Inside, the stone walls are covered with remarkable carvings, including friezes of deities, scenes from the epics, and female figures. Some sculptures were damaged in later centuries.

The light inside is dim; give your eyes time to adjust, and look closely. Photography rules may apply; ask. Remove your shoes before entering.

Jejuri: the golden town of Khandoba

From Bhuleshwar, drive south to Jejuri, the home of Khandoba (also called Malhari Martand), a form of Shiva worshipped as the family deity of many communities across Maharashtra and the Deccan. His main temple sits on a hill above the town, reached by a long stairway of a few hundred steps lined with stone lamp pillars (deepmalas) and small shops.

What makes Jejuri unforgettable is the bhandara, turmeric powder that pilgrims throw in the air as they climb and pray. On festival days, the whole hill, the steps, the people and the temple turn yellow. Even on an ordinary day, you will find turmeric on the steps and on the hands of the shopkeepers.

The temple complex at the top has a large courtyard, deepmalas and a huge bronze tortoise in front of the shrine. Views from the top stretch across the plateau. The big festivals, including those on Somvati Amavasya (a new moon falling on a Monday) and during the Hindu month of Margashirsha, draw huge crowds; check the calendar if you want to see one, or avoid them if you don’t like crowds.

Jejuri is closely linked to the Dhangar (shepherd) community and to the folk traditions of Maharashtra, and the temple’s connection with the Holkar rulers of Indore is often noted. The poet Arun Kolatkar’s celebrated English poem cycle, Jejuri (1976), is a wonderful companion for this visit.

Morgaon: the first of the Ashtavinayak

From Jejuri, continue to Morgaon, home of the Mayureshwar (or Moreshwar) temple, the first and in many ways the most important of the eight Ashtavinayak Ganesh shrines of Maharashtra. Pilgrims traditionally begin and end the Ashtavinayak circuit here.

The temple, built of black stone, is enclosed by high walls with minaret-like towers at the corners, giving it an unusual, almost fortified look. Tradition says Ganesh, riding a peacock (mayura), killed a demon here. A large stone Nandi sits in front of the temple, an unusual sight at a Ganesh shrine, explained by a local legend.

Saswad and back to Pune

On the way back, the road passes through Saswad, a small town associated with the saint Sopandev, the brother of Sant Dnyaneshwar, whose samadhi temple stands by the river. On the horizon to the south, look for the long ridge of Purandar Fort, where the Treaty of Purandar was signed in 1665; it is in a military area and access may be restricted.

From Saswad, the road climbs over the Dive Ghat back into Pune. If you are lucky, you will reach the top of the ghat at dusk and see the lights of the city spread out below.

How to reach

A private car with a driver is the easiest way to do this circuit in a day. State transport buses run from Pune to Jejuri and Morgaon, and to Yavat for Bhuleshwar, but connecting all three by bus in one day is difficult. App cabs can be booked for outstation day trips.

Best time

October to February is the most comfortable time. In April and May, start at dawn, visit Bhuleshwar and Jejuri early, rest through the hottest hours at lunch, and see Morgaon in the late afternoon. The monsoon greens the plateau and makes the drive beautiful.

Where to stay and eat

Most visitors stay in Pune. Simple lodges are available in Jejuri and Morgaon for pilgrims. Along the way, highway dhabas and small town eateries serve Maharashtrian thalis, misal and wada pav. Carry water, fruit and snacks; options near Bhuleshwar are limited. For what to eat back in the city, read Pune food that is not a café list.

Tips

Dress modestly; you will remove your shoes at every temple.
At Jejuri, wear clothes you don’t mind getting yellow.
Carry cash for offerings, parking and snacks.
Wear a hat and sunscreen; the Jejuri steps are exposed.
Respect photography rules inside temples.
If you prefer forts to temples, swap in Shivneri Fort to the north for a different day in the Deccan, or try one fort you can do before lunch.

Why this day works

Three temples, three moods: Bhuleshwar’s quiet stone carvings, Jejuri’s noisy golden hill, and Morgaon’s ordered pilgrim courtyard. Together they show a side of the Deccan that most visitors to Pune never see, and you will still be home for dinner.