Three Days in the Aravallis: Alwar, Sariska and Bhangarh, Not a Checklist

Most Delhi travellers know the road to Jaipur, and many of them speed past Alwar without a second glance. That is a pity. The hills around Alwar, an old princely capital in the Aravalli range roughly 150 to 170 kilometres from Delhi by most estimates, hold a tiger reserve, a famous abandoned town, forest temples, lakes and palaces, all within a short drive of each other. Three days is enough to see them slowly, and to discover a side of Rajasthan that feels far from the city.

This is not a checklist. It is a way of experiencing the Aravallis at a gentle pace. Distances, rules and fees change, so please check locally before you travel, especially in the monsoon.

Before you go

Getting there. Alwar is reachable by road from Delhi in roughly three to four hours, depending on traffic, and by train on the Delhi–Jaipur line. Hiring a car and driver for the trip makes moving between places easier.

When to go. October to March is the most comfortable season. Summer is very hot. In the monsoon, roughly July to September, the hills turn green and lakes fill, but parts of Sariska’s core area are usually closed to safaris, and some roads can be affected by rain.

Where to stay. Options range from heritage hotels in old palaces and forts to simple guesthouses and resorts near Sariska. Book ahead for weekends.

Day 1: Alwar town

Arrive in Alwar by late morning and settle in. In the afternoon, explore the town’s old core. The City Palace, built in the 18th and 19th centuries according to most accounts, houses government offices and a museum with manuscripts, miniature paintings and arms; check its opening days. Behind it lies a beautiful tank, Sagar, lined with ghats and small pavilions, and the cenotaph of Maharaja Bakhtawar Singh, often called Moosi Maharani ki Chhatri, with its elegant marble and sandstone architecture.

Above the town, the Bala Quila fort sits on a ridge. Access may be restricted at times because it lies within a forest area; ask locally.

In the evening, try Alwar’s famous milk cake, a grainy, caramelised sweet that is closely associated with the town, from one of the many sweet shops in the bazaar.

Day 2: Sariska

On the second day, drive to Sariska Tiger Reserve, roughly 35 to 40 kilometres from Alwar. Sariska is a dry deciduous forest of dhok trees, rocky hills and grasslands. It became famous in the mid-2000s when its tigers were found to have disappeared, and tigers have since been reintroduced from Ranthambore. Today the reserve is home to tigers, leopards, sambar, nilgai, jungle cats and a wide range of birds.

Book a safari through the official booking system in advance, especially on weekends. Morning safaris are often the best for wildlife and light. Remember that sightings are never guaranteed; enjoy the forest itself.

Within the reserve area are several historic sites, including the ruins of Kankwari Fort and the temple of Pandupol, associated in legend with the Pandavas. Access depends on current reserve rules; check before you go.

Spend the afternoon resting, and in the evening watch the sun set over the Aravallis from your guesthouse or a quiet spot nearby.

Day 3: Bhangarh and the lakes

On the third morning, drive to Bhangarh, roughly 50 to 60 kilometres from Sariska. Bhangarh is an abandoned 17th-century town with the ruins of palaces, temples, markets and gates set against the hills. It is famous across India as a “haunted” place, and the Archaeological Survey of India, which protects the site, does not allow visitors after sunset. Whatever you make of the legends, the ruins are atmospheric and beautiful. Go early to avoid the crowds and the heat.

Nearby, the step-well at Abhaneri, Chand Baori, one of the deepest and most dramatic in India, makes a worthwhile detour if you have time, though it adds distance.

On your way back towards Delhi, consider a stop at Siliserh Lake, near Alwar, where a 19th-century palace overlooks the water, or at Neemrana Fort Palace for a final glimpse of heritage before rejoining the highway.

If you have an extra day

The Aravallis around Alwar reward longer stays. Keen walkers can explore trails in the hills with a local guide, and birdwatchers will find lakes such as Siliserh and Jaisamand, near Alwar, worth a slow morning, particularly in winter when migratory birds may arrive. Village walks, arranged through homestays, offer a glimpse of rural life in Mewat and the Alwar countryside: stone houses, cattle herders, small temples and fields of mustard in season. A slower day like this is often the one travellers remember most.

Why this is not a checklist

You could try to combine Alwar, Sariska, Bhangarh, Abhaneri, Neemrana and Jaipur in one weekend. You would spend most of it in a car. This plan gives each day one focus: a town, a forest and a ruin. It leaves time for long lunches, afternoon rests and evenings watching the hills.

Food

Look out for Alwar’s milk cake, Rajasthani dishes such as dal-baati-churma, ker sangri and kadhi, and simple thalis at roadside dhabas. Heritage hotels often serve traditional Rajasthani meals; ask in advance.

Practical tips

Book safaris and stays early. Sariska safaris and weekend rooms fill up.

Respect the reserve. Follow guides’ instructions, stay in vehicles, keep noise low and never feed animals.

Respect the ruins. Do not climb on fragile structures at Bhangarh, and follow ASI rules on timings.

Carry water and sun protection. The Aravallis can be hot and dry outside winter.

Carry cash. Some smaller places may not accept cards, and network coverage can be patchy in the forest.

A different Rajasthan

The Alwar region is a reminder that Rajasthan begins much closer to Delhi than most people think. In three slow days, you can wander an old princely town, look for tigers in a dry forest and walk through the ruins of an abandoned city, all without spending too long on the road. It is one of the most rewarding weekend escapes from the capital.

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