A Rest Day at Altitude

Most Spiti itineraries are written as a list of places. Day one, Shimla to Narkanda. Day two, Narkanda to Sangla. Day three, on to Nako, and so on, every day another drive, another village, another view. Look closely and you will notice what most of them leave out: a day when you do not go anywhere.

This piece is about that day. The rest day at altitude is, in our view, the single most important day of a Spiti trip. It is also the most commonly skipped. Here is why it matters and how to spend it well.

This article is general information, not medical advice. If you have any health condition, or any doubt about travelling at altitude, consult a doctor before you go.

Why altitude needs time

Much of Spiti lies above 3,000 metres, with towns like Kaza usually given at around 3,600 to 3,800 metres and villages and passes considerably higher. At these altitudes there is less oxygen available with each breath, and the body needs time to adjust. This process is called acclimatisation.

When people ascend faster than their bodies can adapt, they can develop acute mountain sickness, often called AMS. Symptoms commonly include headache, nausea, fatigue, dizziness, loss of appetite and difficulty sleeping. Most cases are mild and improve with rest and no further ascent. But in some people, AMS can progress to more serious conditions, high-altitude cerebral oedema (HACE) or high-altitude pulmonary oedema (HAPE), which can be life-threatening.

Fitness does not protect you. Young, strong, experienced travellers can be affected as easily as anyone else. Speed of ascent and individual susceptibility matter far more.

The general principles

Mountain medicine guidance typically includes a few key principles. We summarise them here, but please read reliable medical sources and speak to a doctor for advice specific to you.

• Ascend gradually. Avoid large jumps in sleeping altitude, especially above about 3,000 metres.
• Build in rest days. Spending an extra night at the same altitude gives your body a chance to catch up.
• “Climb high, sleep low.” Short walks to slightly higher ground during the day, followed by sleeping lower, can help acclimatisation.
• Do not ascend with symptoms. If you feel unwell, stay where you are until you feel better.
• Descend if symptoms worsen. Descent is the most effective treatment for altitude illness.
• Never leave someone with symptoms alone.

Some travellers take medication to help prevent altitude sickness. Whether this is appropriate for you is a question for a doctor before you travel.

Where to take your rest day

The ideal place for a rest day depends on your route. Coming in from the Kinnaur side, many travellers find a night or two in a village such as Nako or Tabo before reaching Kaza helps. On arrival in Kaza, an extra night before heading to higher villages like Kibber, Langza or Komic is wise. If you entered via Manali and jumped altitude quickly, a rest day as soon as you reach Kaza is especially important.

A good rest day location has:

• Comfortable, warm accommodation
• Access to food and drinking water
• Some medical facilities nearby, or at least a clear route down
• Gentle walks for short outings

Kaza ticks most of these boxes, which is one of the reasons we suggest treating it as more than a stopover.

How to spend a rest day

A rest day does not have to be boring. Here is how we would spend one.

Sleep in. Your sleep may have been broken by the altitude. Let yourself rest.

Eat a slow breakfast. Even if your appetite is low, try to eat something. Simple carbohydrate-rich food is often easier.

Drink water. Staying hydrated is important at altitude, though overdrinking is not helpful either. Sip steadily through the day.

Take a gentle walk. A slow stroll around town, along the river or to a nearby viewpoint keeps you moving without strain. Walk at a pace where you can talk comfortably.

Sit in the sun. Spiti’s sun is strong, even when the air is cold. Wear sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat.

Visit something close. A local monastery, a café, a shop. Nothing that needs a long drive.

Write, read, sketch. A rest day is a chance to take stock of the trip so far.

Go to bed early. Avoid alcohol and heavy meals in the evening.

Signs to watch for

During your rest day, check in with yourself and your travel companions. Signs that suggest you should not go higher include:

• A headache that does not improve with rest
• Nausea or vomiting
• Unusual tiredness or weakness
• Dizziness or unsteadiness
• Breathlessness at rest
• Confusion or unusual behaviour

The last two in particular can be signs of serious illness. If you or a companion has them, seek medical help and descend as soon as safely possible.

Rest days and the itinerary

Adding a rest day might mean cutting a village or a viewpoint from your plan. That is a trade worth making. A trip that includes rest days is not only safer but almost always more enjoyable. You arrive at each new place feeling well enough to appreciate it, rather than counting the hours until you can lie down.

If your schedule is too tight to include rest days, we would gently suggest that the schedule is too tight for Spiti.

Travelling with others

Altitude affects people differently, and a group is only as well as its least acclimatised member. Agree before you go that anyone can call a rest day without explanation, and that the group will respect it. That one agreement can prevent a great deal of trouble.

Talk openly about how everyone is feeling each morning. Some people hide symptoms because they do not want to slow others down. Make it clear that saying “I don’t feel right” is welcome.

A good day

At the end of a rest day, you may feel that you have done nothing. You will have done something important. You will have given your body the time it needs to carry you safely through one of the most beautiful places on earth. That is a good day’s work.

This article is general guidance only. For medical advice, consult a qualified doctor.