Rajmachi: A First Monsoon Trek Under the Cloud

If you have never trekked in the monsoon, the Sahyadris of Maharashtra, the northern stretch of the Western Ghats, are a good place to begin. And among the many monsoon treks in the region, Rajmachi is one of the most forgiving. It has no technical climbing, a broad trail for much of the way, a village where you can rest and eat, and at the top, two old hill forts wrapped in cloud. This is a guide to walking it safely in July, with the reminder that conditions and rules change every season.

Where is Rajmachi?

Rajmachi is a village and twin fort complex in the hills between Lonavala and Karjat, in Pune and Raigad districts. The two forts, Shrivardhan and Manaranjan, stand on a ridge above the village and once guarded an old trade route through the Bor ghat between the Konkan coast and the Deccan plateau. The forts are associated with the Maratha period, and their history goes back further. Today they are ruins, with walls, gateways, water cisterns and bastions overgrown with monsoon green.

Two routes

There are two common approaches.

From Lonavala: the more gentle approach follows a long, broad dirt track from the Tungarli side towards Rajmachi village, often described as roughly 15 to 16 kilometres one way, with modest gradients. In dry weather some people drive or ride much of this route, but in the monsoon it becomes muddy and rutted, and walking is the better choice. It is long rather than steep, which makes it ideal for beginners with reasonable fitness.

From Karjat (Kondivade or Kondana side): a shorter but steeper climb up the escarpment from the Konkan side, passing near the Kondana caves, a group of early Buddhist rock-cut caves. This route is more demanding and slippery in heavy rain, with rocky sections and streams to cross. It is better for those with some trekking experience, or with a guide.

For a first monsoon trek, we suggest the Lonavala route, possibly with an overnight stay in Rajmachi village.

What the walk is like in July

Expect rain, sometimes very heavy, broken by sudden clear spells. The trail winds across a plateau and through patches of forest, with views over the Konkan valleys when the clouds lift and nothing but white when they do not. Small waterfalls tumble off every slope. Streams cross the path. The ground is green with grass and, later in the season, dotted with small flowers.

Rajmachi village sits below the forts. Villagers have long hosted trekkers, and simple meals such as pithla-bhakri (a gram-flour curry with millet or rice flatbread), rice and dal, and hot tea are often available. Some households offer basic overnight stays. Arrangements and prices change, so ask on arrival rather than assuming.

From the village, short climbs lead up to each fort. Shrivardhan is the higher; Manaranjan sits on the other side of the saddle. In the monsoon, the paths up are slippery, and the edges of the fort walls can be dangerous in wind and cloud. Stay well back from the edges.

A suggested plan

Day 1: Reach Lonavala early by train or road. Start walking from the Tungarli side by mid-morning. Reach Rajmachi village in the afternoon. Eat, rest, and if conditions are good, visit one of the forts before dusk.
Day 2: Visit the second fort in the morning. Return to Lonavala by the same route, or descend towards Karjat with a guide if you are confident and the trail is safe.

If you prefer a day walk, start very early and go only as far as you comfortably can, turning back with plenty of daylight left.

Safety for a first monsoon trek

Check weather alerts for Pune and Raigad districts before you go. Do not trek on days with red or orange heavy-rain warnings.
Respect closures. Authorities in Maharashtra have in some monsoons restricted access to forts, waterfalls and trekking spots after accidents or during very heavy rain. Check local news and police notices.
Go with company. Walk with friends, a reputable trekking group or a local guide. Never trek alone in the monsoon.
Do not cross streams in spate. Wait, or turn back. Flash floods on the Konkan slopes can rise quickly.
Start early, finish early. Plan to be off the trail well before dark.
Carry enough water and snacks, even though there is plenty of water around; not all of it is safe to drink.
Carry a torch, a poncho and a small first-aid kit. See our honest packing list in this issue.
Take your litter back. Monsoon trekking in the Sahyadris is extremely popular, and plastic waste on trails and forts is a real problem.

Weekend crowds

Rajmachi is close to Mumbai and Pune, and on monsoon weekends it can be crowded. If you can, go on a weekday. The trail is calmer, the village less busy and the forts quieter. Respect villagers’ homes and fields, and do not play loud music on the trail or at the forts.

Getting there

Lonavala is on the main Mumbai-Pune railway line and the Mumbai-Pune Expressway, and Karjat is on the suburban and long-distance lines from Mumbai. Local transport from Lonavala station to the start of the trail is usually available, but confirm locally. In the monsoon, allow extra time for any road travel.

Why Rajmachi works for a first trek

Rajmachi gives you everything that makes monsoon trekking in the Sahyadris special, the cloud, the waterfalls, the green, the old forts, without asking you to scramble up rock faces or walk exposed ridges. It lets you learn how your body and your kit behave in the rain. It has a village at the top where you can rest and eat. And it rewards patience: wait on the fort walls long enough, and the cloud will part to show the valleys below, shining with water, before closing in again.

That moment is why people come back to the Sahyadris every monsoon. Rajmachi is a gentle way to find it for the first time.