Itimad-ud-Daulah and Sikandra: Agra's Quieter Tombs

On a busy morning, tens of thousands of people may pass through the gates of the Taj Mahal. A few kilometres away, two of the most beautiful monuments in Agra can feel almost empty. Itimad-ud-Daulah, on the east bank of the Yamuna, and Akbar’s Tomb at Sikandra, on the road towards Mathura, are among the finest Mughal buildings in India, yet many visitors leave the city without seeing either. If you want to understand how the Taj came to be, and to enjoy Mughal architecture in something close to peace, these are the places to go.

Itimad-ud-Daulah: the jewel box on the river

The story

Itimad-ud-Daulah, meaning Pillar of the State, was the title of Mirza Ghiyas Beg, a Persian noble who rose to become a senior minister at the court of the emperor Jahangir. His daughter, Mehr-un-Nissa, married Jahangir and became the empress Nur Jahan, one of the most powerful women in Mughal history. After her father’s death, Nur Jahan commissioned his tomb on the east bank of the Yamuna, and it was completed in the 1620s.

The building

The tomb is small by Mughal standards, but its detail is breathtaking. It was one of the first Mughal buildings to be faced largely in white marble and decorated with extensive inlay of coloured stones, a technique that would reach its peak at the Taj Mahal. That is why it is often nicknamed the Baby Taj, although in style and mood it is quite different. Instead of a great dome, it has a low, square structure with octagonal towers at the corners, topped by a pavilion.

Look closely at the walls and you will see an extraordinary range of patterns: geometric designs, wine vessels, cypress trees, flowers and arabesques, set in stones of different colours. Inside, painted and carved decoration covers the walls and ceilings. The fine marble screens, or jalis, filter light into the chambers in delicate patterns. Many visitors find the intimacy of the space more moving than the vast scale of the Taj.

The setting

The tomb stands in a classic Mughal charbagh garden, divided into quarters by walkways and water channels. On the river side, a terrace overlooks the Yamuna. Sit here for a while and you can watch boats, birds and the life of the river, with the city across the water.

Visiting tips

Go in the late afternoon, when the light warms the marble and the inlay glows, and combine your visit with nearby east-bank sites such as Chini ka Rauza, Ram Bagh and Mehtab Bagh, ending at Mehtab Bagh for sunset views of the Taj. Check current timings and ticket details on official websites before you go.

Akbar’s Tomb at Sikandra: a garden of ideas

The story

Akbar, the third Mughal emperor, ruled for nearly half a century and transformed the empire. He is remembered for his military campaigns, his administrative reforms and his interest in dialogue between religions. He is believed to have begun planning his own tomb at Sikandra, on the outskirts of Agra, and after his death in 1605 the work was completed by his son Jahangir, around 1613.

The gateway

The approach to Akbar’s Tomb is one of the most impressive in Mughal architecture. The main southern gateway is a massive structure of red sandstone decorated with bold inlaid patterns in white marble and coloured stone, and crowned with four white marble minarets at its corners. Some historians see these minarets as an early step towards the more famous minarets of the Taj.

The garden

Beyond the gateway lies a vast walled garden, divided by raised walkways into the four quarters of a charbagh. Herds of blackbuck and other deer are often seen grazing on the lawns, along with peacocks and monkeys, giving the complex a gentle, park-like atmosphere. On a winter afternoon, it is one of the most peaceful places in Agra.

The tomb

The tomb itself is unusual. Rather than a single domed mausoleum, it is a pyramid-like structure of several storeys, with arcaded terraces in red sandstone rising to an upper level of white marble. The design blends Persian, Indian and other influences, and many people see it as a reflection of Akbar’s own wide-ranging interests. The actual grave lies in a crypt below, reached through a long, dim passage, while a cenotaph stands on the uppermost terrace.

Visiting tips

Sikandra lies on the road towards Mathura, about ten kilometres from central Agra, so it combines well with a trip to Mathura and Vrindavan or with a visit on your way in or out of the city. Allow at least an hour, and longer if you want to sit in the garden. Wear comfortable shoes, carry water and do not feed the animals.

Why the quieter monuments matter

Seeing Itimad-ud-Daulah and Sikandra adds depth to any visit to Agra. At Sikandra, you see the bold red sandstone and inventive design of Akbar’s era. At Itimad-ud-Daulah, you see the shift towards white marble and delicate inlay under Jahangir and Nur Jahan. At the Taj Mahal, you see that shift reach its climax under Shah Jahan. Together, they tell the story of Mughal architecture in Agra in a way no single monument can.

They also give you something increasingly rare at major heritage sites: space. Space to look closely, to sit quietly, and to imagine the people who built and visited these places centuries ago.

Practical notes

Both monuments are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India; check current timings, tickets and rules before you go.
Late afternoon is lovely at Itimad-ud-Daulah; mornings and late afternoons are pleasant at Sikandra.
Use licensed guides if you want historical context.
Combine Itimad-ud-Daulah with other east-bank sites, and Sikandra with a trip towards Mathura.
Be respectful: do not touch the inlay or climb on structures, and carry your litter back.

The Agra beside the famous one

Next time you plan a trip to the Taj Mahal, set aside half a day for these quieter monuments. You will come away with a richer understanding of Mughal Agra, and with memories of marble, gardens and calm that the crowds at the Taj can never give you.