Editor’s Letter: Himachal Pradesh

April in Himachal Pradesh is a month of thaw. In the lower hills, the rhododendrons are out and the apple orchards are beginning to blossom. In Shimla and Manali, the winter crowds have gone and the summer rush has not yet begun. Higher up, snow still lies on the passes, and the roads into the farthest valleys are only beginning to wake. It is a season of in-between, and it is exactly why we chose it for this April 2024 issue of Travel Viewpoint.

Himachal is, for many Indian travellers, the first mountain state they ever knew. It is the hill station of childhood holidays, the honeymoon in Manali, the school trip to Shimla, the college road trip to Kasol. Familiarity can make a place feel smaller than it is. One of our aims this month is to show how much more there is: a state that stretches from the Shivalik foothills to the cold desert of Spiti and Lahaul, from temple towns and tea gardens to monasteries on the edge of Tibet.

A state of many valleys

Himachal Pradesh is often described as a land of valleys, and each one feels like its own small world. The Kullu valley follows the Beas river through orchards and pine forests. The Kangra valley, overlooked by the Dhauladhar range, is home to Dharamshala, McLeod Ganj and tea gardens. The Chamba valley, with Dalhousie on its rim, holds old temples and a distinct culture. Kinnaur, along the Sutlej, is a land of apple orchards, wooden temples and dramatic gorges. Beyond them lie Lahaul and Spiti, high, dry and austere.

The people are just as varied. Himachal is home to communities with their own dialects, deities and festivals. Many villages have their own local god, carried in procession during fairs such as the Kullu Dussehra. Buddhist culture is strong in the upper valleys and around McLeod Ganj, which has been home to the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government-in-exile for decades.

What is in this issue

Several of the state’s best-known destinations already appear in this issue as published stories: Shimla, Manali, Dalhousie, Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj, and Kasol. Our new pieces build around them.

Shimla to Spiti: The One Route That Explains Himachal Pradesh follows a single road from the old summer capital along the Sutlej through Kinnaur and into the Spiti valley, a journey in which you can see almost every face of the state. Three Days in Himachal Pradesh, Not a Checklist is our answer to the question we are asked most often: what should I do if I only have a long weekend? The answer, as you will see, is less than you think.

What to Skip on a First Trip to Himachal Pradesh is an honest guide to avoiding the traffic jams, overcrowded viewpoints and over-packed itineraries that can spoil a visit. Naggar Beside Manali: A Quieter Place Beside the Famous One takes you to the old capital of the Kullu valley, just a short drive from Manali but a world away in mood. Finally, Food, Stay and How You Actually Move in Himachal Pradesh brings together practical advice on eating well, choosing where to sleep and getting around in a mountain state where distances are measured in hours, not kilometres.

Why April

April is a sweet spot for much of Himachal. In the middle hills, days are pleasant and nights still cool, which makes walking a pleasure. The rhododendron forests around places like Shimla, the Kangra valley and the Tirthan valley are often in flower, and apple and cherry blossom brightens the orchards of Kullu and Kinnaur, though timing shifts with altitude and the year’s weather. It is also a good month for clear views of the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges on many mornings.

There are trade-offs. The highest passes can still be closed, and parts of Lahaul and Spiti may be hard or impossible to reach on the Manali side. School holidays in the plains begin to push up crowds towards the end of the season. But if you travel in early or mid April, and keep your plans flexible, you will often find Himachal at its freshest.

How we want you to travel

If there is a thread running through this issue, it is this: slow down. Himachal’s roads are mountainous and can be crowded in peak season. A journey that looks short on a map can take much of a day. Rushing from one famous place to another usually means spending more time in a vehicle than outside it.

We would rather you chose one valley and got to know it. Stay in a village homestay instead of a highway hotel. Walk to a temple instead of driving to the viewpoint everyone photographs. Eat siddu or dham where locals eat it. Ask your host about the local deity. These are the experiences that stay with you.

Travelling responsibly

Himachal’s popularity brings pressures. Traffic congestion, waste on trekking routes and over-construction in some towns are real concerns. Travellers can help by carrying reusable water bottles, avoiding single-use plastic, staying on marked trails, and supporting locally owned stays and eateries. In high-altitude areas such as Spiti, respect the fragile environment and take altitude seriously by ascending gradually.

Respect local customs, too. Many temples have their own rules about dress, footwear and photography. In Buddhist areas, walk clockwise around stupas and prayer wheels. Ask before photographing people.

A note on accuracy

We have tried to be careful with facts. Road openings, especially for high passes such as Rohtang and Kunzum, depend on snow and are announced each year. Permit requirements for some areas change. We have avoided quoting prices and specific timings because they change often. Please check current information locally before you travel.

Thank you

Thank you to the drivers, guides, homestay hosts and cooks whose knowledge is folded into these pages, and to you, our readers, for travelling with us. After a month in Sikkim, it feels right to stay in the Himalaya a little longer. We hope this issue helps you see a familiar state with fresh eyes.

With warm regards from the hills,

Khushi Anand, Editor