Three days in Himachal Pradesh is not much time. That is exactly why it is worth planning carefully. The temptation is to see as much as possible: Shimla, Kufri, Manali, Solang, Rohtang, perhaps a dash to Dharamshala. The result is usually three days in a car, stuck in traffic on mountain roads, with brief stops at crowded viewpoints. This piece offers a different approach: choose one base, see a little, and leave with memories rather than a checklist.
The principle: one valley, one base
Distances in Himachal are deceptive. A journey of a hundred kilometres can take four hours or more on mountain roads. With only three days, the single most important decision is to stay in one area. Pick a valley, stay in one place or at most two, and spend your time exploring nearby rather than driving between famous names.
Below are three options, each suited to a different kind of traveller. Choose one.
Option one: the Kullu valley from Manali or Naggar
Day one: arrive and settle
Most travellers reach Manali by overnight bus from Delhi or by flying to the Bhuntar airport near Kullu, then driving up the valley. Arrive, rest and spend the afternoon in Old Manali, with its wooden houses, cafés and apple orchards. Walk to the Hadimba Devi Temple, set among deodar trees, and the nearby Manu Temple.
Day two: a walk, not a drive
Instead of joining the queue of vehicles heading to snow points, spend the day walking. The trail to the Jogini Waterfall from Vashisht is a pleasant half-day walk with views of the valley. Vashisht village itself has hot springs and an old temple. Alternatively, take a short drive to Naggar, the old capital of the Kullu kingdom, and visit Naggar Castle and the Nicholas Roerich Art Gallery.
Day three: Solang or simply stay
If you want snow and the road is open, visit Solang Valley early in the morning, before the crowds. Otherwise, spend a slow morning by the Beas before leaving. In April, the Rohtang Pass is usually closed, and permits are required when it is open, so do not plan your trip around it.
Option two: the Kangra valley from McLeod Ganj
Day one: arrive in McLeod Ganj
Reach Dharamshala by road or by flying to the Gaggal (Kangra) airport. Head up to McLeod Ganj, home of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan community. Visit the Tsuglagkhang complex, the main temple, and walk the kora (circumambulation path) around it, lined with prayer flags and wheels.
Day two: Triund or a gentler walk
For fit walkers, the trek to Triund offers a spectacular view of the Dhauladhar range. It is a full day out, steep in places, and best started early. If that is too much, walk to the Bhagsu waterfall or to the village of Dharamkot, with its cafés and quiet lanes.
Day three: tea gardens and temples
Drive down to the Kangra valley floor, visit the tea gardens around Dharamshala or Palampur, and stop at the Kangra Fort, one of the oldest forts in the region. The Masroor rock-cut temples, a little further, are another option for those interested in history.
Option three: Shimla and its hills
Day one: Shimla on foot
Reach Shimla by road or, for the experience, by the Kalka-Shimla toy train, a UNESCO World Heritage line. Walk the Mall Road and the Ridge, visit Christ Church, and in the evening stroll to Lakkar Bazaar.
Day two: a forest walk
Walk up to the Jakhoo Temple, dedicated to Hanuman, through deodar forest (watch your belongings; the monkeys are bold). Visit the Viceregal Lodge (Indian Institute of Advanced Study) in the afternoon, which has guided tours on many days.
Day three: a quiet village
Instead of Kufri, consider a day at Mashobra or Naldehra, or drive towards Chail, with its forests and old palace. In April, the rhododendrons may be in bloom in the forests around Shimla.
Choosing between the three
If you want orchards, rivers and a lively café scene, choose the Kullu valley. If you are drawn to Tibetan culture, a good walk and tea country, choose Kangra. If you prefer colonial history, forests and an easy train journey, choose Shimla. There is no wrong answer, only the mistake of trying to do all three.
What to leave out
With three days, you must leave things out. That is not a loss. It is a choice that lets you enjoy what you see.
- Do not try to combine Shimla and Manali in three days. The drive between them takes much of a day.
- Do not plan around Rohtang Pass in April; it is usually closed.
- Do not attempt Spiti in three days. It needs a week or more.
- Do not spend your time in long queues at crowded snow points.
How to make it feel like more
- Stay in a homestay or small guesthouse, not a highway hotel.
- Walk at least a few hours every day.
- Eat local food: siddu, trout, dham, Tibetan dishes in McLeod Ganj.
- Talk to people: hosts, shopkeepers, monks.
- Wake up early for the clearest mountain views.
When to go
April is a lovely month for all three options. The weather is pleasant in the middle hills, the blossom is out in many orchards, and the peak summer crowds have not yet arrived, though school holidays later in the season bring more visitors. Nights are cool, so pack layers.
Getting there
- Kullu valley: Bhuntar airport, overnight buses from Delhi and Chandigarh.
- Kangra valley: Gaggal airport, buses, and the Pathankot-Joginder Nagar narrow-gauge line.
- Shimla: road, the Kalka-Shimla railway, and Shimla’s small airport at Jubbarhatti with limited flights.
Flight schedules and train timings change, so check before you plan.
The point of three days
Three days will not show you Himachal. Nothing short of months could. But three days in one valley, done slowly, can show you what makes it special: the morning light on the Dhauladhar, the sound of a temple bell in the forest, the warmth of a host serving tea. That is worth more than a long list of places glimpsed from a car window.
Road openings, permit requirements, train and flight schedules and timings change. Please check current information before you travel.
More from Issue 60
- April 2024
- Editor’s Letter: Himachal Pradesh
- Shimla: The Enigmatic Jewel of Himachal Pradesh
- Manali: A Himalayan Haven in Himachal Pradesh
- Dalhousie: A Beautiful Himalayan Retreat in Himachal Pradesh
- Travel through Dharamshala & McLeod Ganj
- Kasol: A Himalayan Paradise of Tranquilly & Adventure
- Shimla to Spiti: The One Route That Explains Himachal Pradesh
- What to Skip on a First Trip to Himachal Pradesh
- Naggar Beside Manali: A Quieter Place Beside the Famous One
- Food, Stay and How You Actually Move in Himachal Pradesh
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