Editor's Letter: Ayodhya Learns to Welcome the World

Dear readers,

Some cities you visit. Others, you feel you have known all your life before you ever arrive. For millions of Indians, Ayodhya is one of those cities. We grow up with its stories: the prince who chose exile over a broken promise, the brother who ruled with sandals on the throne, the lamps that lit the city when Rama came home. Long before I first walked its lanes, Ayodhya already lived in my imagination. This issue is about what happens when that imagined city meets the real one.

Welcome to the December 2024 issue of Travel Viewpoint, our issue devoted to Ayodhya.

A year of change

2024 has been an extraordinary year for Ayodhya. In January, the new Ram Mandir was consecrated, and since then pilgrims and travellers have arrived in numbers the town had rarely seen before. A new airport, a redeveloped railway station, widened roads and new ghats have changed the shape of the city in a remarkably short time. Hotels, homestays and guesthouses have opened on every side.

Change on this scale is never simple. Ayodhya is learning, very quickly, to welcome the world. There are growing pains: crowds, construction and the occasional chaos of a town that has suddenly become one of the most visited places in India. But there is also great warmth, and an unmistakable sense of pride among the people who live here.

The city behind the headlines

When I visited, what struck me most was how much of Ayodhya exists beyond the news. Yes, the new temple is magnificent, and standing in line with families who had travelled across the country to see it was deeply moving. But Ayodhya is also a town of hundreds of smaller temples and maths, of sadhus chanting in courtyards, of bells at dawn and lamps on the Saryu at dusk. It is a town where a sweet seller will tell you a story from the Ramayana as he weighs your laddoos, and where every lane seems to have its own legend.

I remember an early morning at Ram ki Paidi, the chain of ghats on the Saryu. The light was soft and grey, the river wide and calm. An elderly couple were bathing, holding hands, steadying each other on the steps. A group of children ran past carrying marigold garlands to a nearby temple. Somewhere a loudspeaker played a bhajan, slightly crackly, and nobody seemed to mind. It was ordinary and timeless at once, and it is that Ayodhya, the everyday one, that I hope this issue helps you find.

What you will find in this issue

Our lead feature walks the length of Ram Path and down to Ram ki Paidi, the one walk that explains how ancient Ayodhya and new Ayodhya fit together. Our three-day story offers a slower way to experience the city, with time for temples, the river and the quieter corners. We also offer an honest guide to what to skip on your first trip, from peak-day crowds to touts, and a less-travelled journey to Faizabad, Ayodhya’s twin city, once the capital of the Nawabs of Awadh, with its tombs and gardens.

From our archive this month you will find our portrait of Ayodhya as the cradle of Indian heritage, a perfect one-day itinerary for first-time visitors, a walk through the city’s Ramayana connections, a guide to its local food, a look at cultural gems beyond the temples and an exploration of the Saryu river.

Why December

December is one of the best months to visit Ayodhya. The heat of summer and the humidity of the monsoon are long gone, and days are usually mild and pleasant for walking. Mornings and evenings can be properly cold, though, and winter fog is common across the plains of Uttar Pradesh, sometimes delaying flights and trains. Pack warm layers, allow some slack in your plans and enjoy the soft winter light on the river. It is also a quieter month than the great festival days of Diwali and Ram Navami, which makes it easier to see the city at a human pace.

A city of many layers

It is worth remembering, too, that Ayodhya is more than one story. It has been a sacred place for Hindus for centuries, and it also holds significance in Jain tradition, as the birthplace of several tirthankaras. Next door, Faizabad carries the memory of the Nawabs of Awadh. These layers sit side by side, and noticing them makes any visit richer.

A few words of advice

Ayodhya can be overwhelming, especially on festival days and weekends. Plan your temple visits for early mornings or weekdays if you can, check the current entry rules for the Ram Mandir before you go, and be patient with security checks and queues. Rules around phones, bags and timings can change, so confirm them locally.

Most of all, take your time. It is tempting to treat Ayodhya as a single destination, one temple to see and tick off. But the city rewards slowness. Sit by the river, wander a lane, accept a cup of tea from a shopkeeper and listen to the stories. You will leave with far more than a photograph. And if you can, stay at least two nights; the city at dawn and the city at dusk feel like two different places, and both are worth seeing.

Travelling with respect

Ayodhya is a holy city first and a tourist destination second. Dress modestly, remove your shoes where required, follow temple rules, and respect the vegetarian traditions of the town. Be mindful of photography, especially of sadhus and of rituals at the ghats. And please, keep the Saryu clean.

Thank you

As this year draws to a close, thank you for travelling with Travel Viewpoint through another twelve issues. We hope this final issue of 2024 inspires you to discover Ayodhya for yourself: not only the city of headlines, but the city of stories, lamps and quiet mornings by the river. If you visit, write to us. We would love to hear what you found.

With warm wishes for the season and the year ahead,

Khushi Anand, Editor