Many visitors treat Ayodhya as a day trip: arrive in the morning, queue for the Ram Mandir, visit Hanuman Garhi and leave by evening. It is possible, but it misses most of what makes the city special. Ayodhya rewards those who slow down. With three days, you can see the great temples without rushing, spend time by the Saryu at dawn and dusk, wander the old lanes, and venture out to the quieter places around the city. Here is one way to spend them, not as a checklist but as a rhythm.
Before you go, check the current rules and timings for the major temples, especially the Ram Mandir, as these have changed since its consecration in January 2024. In December, mornings and evenings can be cold and foggy, so pack warm layers and allow flexibility for travel delays.
Day one: arrival and the river
Arrive in Ayodhya by air, rail or road. Maharishi Valmiki International Airport, opened at the end of 2023, connects the city with several major Indian cities, and Ayodhya Dham Junction, the city’s redeveloped railway station, has trains from Delhi, Lucknow, Varanasi and beyond. Lucknow is roughly a three-hour drive away, depending on traffic.
Check in, rest, and resist the urge to rush straight to the temples. Instead, spend your first afternoon getting your bearings. Take an e-rickshaw down to the river and walk along Ram ki Paidi, the chain of ghats on a channel of the Saryu. Watch pilgrims bathing, children playing and families strolling as the light softens.
As evening falls, make your way to the riverfront near Naya Ghat for the Saryu aarti. Lamps are waved over the water, bells ring and small leaf boats with flowers and lamps drift away on the current. It is the perfect, gentle introduction to the city. Have an early, simple dinner and get a good night’s sleep; tomorrow starts early.
Day two: the temples
Wake before dawn and head to the Ram Mandir, aiming to arrive as early as the temple allows. Early mornings are usually far calmer than later in the day, and the pink sandstone is beautiful in the first light. Leave your phone, bag and other prohibited items at your hotel or at the designated deposit facility, and be prepared for security checks and a queue. Inside, take a moment to look at the carvings and the scale of the building, and to watch the faces of the pilgrims around you. For many, this is the journey of a lifetime.
After the temple, have breakfast at a simple local eatery: kachori, puri-sabzi or jalebi with hot tea are common morning foods in this part of Uttar Pradesh.
Late morning, walk to Hanuman Garhi, the hilltop temple where tradition holds that Hanuman guards the city. Climb the steps with the crowds, hold your belongings tightly and keep an eye on the monkeys. Then continue to Kanak Bhawan, the temple traditionally said to be Sita’s palace, where the atmosphere is calmer and devotional music often fills the courtyard. Nearby, visit Dashrath Mahal.
Rest in the heat of the afternoon, then spend a slow late afternoon wandering the old lanes between the temples. Small shrines, maths and ashrams fill every corner; shops sell prayer beads, brass idols, sindoor and sweets. Stop wherever something catches your eye.
In the evening, if you have the energy, return to Ram ki Paidi to see the ghats lit up, or simply enjoy a quiet dinner.
Day three: the quieter Ayodhya and Faizabad
On your third day, step back from the main temple circuit. Start with a morning visit to a quieter spot on the Saryu. Guptar Ghat, a little upstream towards Faizabad, is associated with the legend that Rama departed the world by entering the waters of the Saryu here. It is generally more peaceful than the central ghats, and a lovely place for a walk at dawn.
From Guptar Ghat, continue into Faizabad, Ayodhya’s twin city. Once the capital of the Nawabs of Awadh before the court moved to Lucknow, Faizabad has a very different character, with Mughal-influenced architecture and a more ordinary, workaday feel. Visit Gulab Bari, the garden tomb of Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula, and the Bahu Begum ka Maqbara, the mausoleum of his wife, one of the finest examples of Nawabi architecture in the region. Wander the old market and try some local snacks.
In the afternoon, if time allows, head out to Bharat Kund at Nandigram, some distance from the city. According to tradition, this is where Bharata ruled Ayodhya in Rama’s name during the years of exile, keeping Rama’s sandals on the throne. It is a quiet, rural place with ponds and temples, and a moving counterpoint to the crowds of the city.
Return to Ayodhya for a final evening by the river. Sit on the steps at Ram ki Paidi as the lamps are lit, and let the three days settle.
If you have more time
Ayodhya has many more temples and sacred sites, including Nageshwarnath temple near Ram ki Paidi, associated in tradition with Rama’s son Kush, as well as several Jain temples connected with the tirthankaras said to have been born here. Ask locally about museums and cultural spaces, which have expanded in recent years.
Where to stay
Accommodation in Ayodhya has expanded rapidly since 2023, with new hotels, homestays and guesthouses at a wide range of prices. Staying close to the temple area saves time, but can be noisy and busy; staying near Faizabad can be quieter. Book ahead for weekends, festivals and holidays, and read recent reviews carefully, as standards vary.
Practical tips
- Mornings are best for temples and photography.
- Wear slip-on shoes; you will remove them often.
- Carry small notes and coins for e-rickshaws, offerings and snacks.
- Agree e-rickshaw fares before setting off.
- Dress modestly and follow temple rules on photography and conduct.
- Ayodhya is largely vegetarian; enjoy the local thalis and sweets.
- In December, expect cold mornings, fog and possible travel delays.
Why three days
Three days in Ayodhya let you see the city as a pilgrim and as a traveller. You will have stood in the great new temple, but also sat quietly by the river, wandered the old lanes, seen the tombs of Faizabad and heard the stories of Bharat Kund. You will leave not just with a darshan, but with a sense of the city itself, layered, devoted, changing and deeply welcoming.
More from Issue 68
- December 2024
- Editor’s Letter: Ayodhya, a City Learning to Welcome the World
- Ayodhya: The Cradle of Indian Heritage
- A Day in Ayodhya: Perfect Itinerary for First-Time Visitors
- The Ramayana Connection: Walking Through Ayodhya’s Mythological Past
- Ayodhya’s Local Cuisine: What to Eat and Where to Find It
- Ayodhya Beyond Temples: Cultural Gems to Discover
- Exploring the Saryu River: A Spiritual and Scenic Experience
- Ram Path to Ram ki Paidi: The One Walk That Explains Ayodhya
- What to Skip on Your First Trip to Ayodhya
- Faizabad: The Quieter Nawabi City Beside Ayodhya
Hong Kong
Srinagar – The Mesmerizing Lake City
Editor’s Letter: Ayodhya, a City Learning to Welcome the World
The Town You Sleep In
Why the base town shapes a monsoon waterfall trip more than any single fall, what to look for, and towns in Karnataka, Kerala and Goa worth considering.
One village ghat upriver
Train versus road that week
Markets before the 20th, not on it
Journeys Worth Discovering
Explore inspiring destinations, memorable journeys and travel stories from across India and beyond.
Explore destinations
