Jaffna Food Guide: A First Meal in Sri Lanka's North

Jaffna does not always make it onto first-time itineraries in Sri Lanka. It sits at the far northern tip of the island, a long journey from the beaches and hill country, and for decades it was cut off by civil war. But for travellers who make the trip, the food alone is reason enough. This is a guide to that first meal, and to the flavours that make the Tamil north feel like a different country.

A note for June 2022: Sri Lanka is in a severe economic crisis, with shortages of fuel, cooking gas and some foods, and frequent power cuts. Some restaurants have shortened menus or opening hours, and long-distance travel is less predictable. Please check current travel advice and confirm arrangements locally before you set out.

Getting to Jaffna

The Northern Line connects Colombo with Jaffna and continues to Kankesanthurai, and the train is a popular way to make the long journey. Buses also run from Colombo and other cities. The trip takes most of a day. Given the current fuel situation, rail may be more reliable than road, but services can be crowded and timetables can change.

Why Jaffna food is different

The cuisine of the north has a lot in common with Tamil cooking across the Palk Strait in South India, but it has its own distinctive character. Jaffna cooking is known for its heat, for the use of a roasted curry powder sometimes simply called Jaffna curry powder, and for seafood from the lagoons and the surrounding sea. Palmyra palms, which grow everywhere on the peninsula, show up in everything from sweets to the fermented drink called toddy.

The famous crab curry

If there is one dish people travel for, it is Jaffna crab curry. Lagoon crabs are cooked in a thick, fiery gravy with roasted spices, tamarind and coconut, sometimes with drumsticks and murunga leaves. It is messy, intense and best eaten with your hands alongside rice or string hoppers. Ask your guest house where the locals go; many of the best versions come from small, family-run places rather than restaurants aimed at visitors.

Odiyal kool

Odiyal kool is a thick seafood soup thickened with flour made from dried palmyra root. It typically includes crab, prawns, fish, squid, long beans, jackfruit seeds and leafy greens, and it is spicy and tangy. It is often prepared for gatherings rather than as everyday food, so it may need to be ordered ahead.

Other things to try

Kothu roti, the chopped flatbread stir-fry found all over the island, here often served very spicy.
Thosai and idli for breakfast, with sambol and chutneys.
String hoppers with a fish or chicken curry.
Palmyra-based sweets, such as pinattu, a dried fruit-leather made from palmyra pulp.
Fresh lime juice and, if you drink, palm toddy from licensed outlets.

Jaffna’s ice cream

Jaffna has a long love affair with ice cream, and a visit to one of the old ice cream parlours near the town centre has become something of a tradition for visitors. Sundaes in tall glasses, bright colours and sweet flavours are part of the fun, especially after a hot afternoon.

Eating with care

The north is hot and humid much of the year, so drink bottled or boiled water and choose busy places with high turnover. If you are not used to strong chilli, ask for dishes to be made milder; cooks are often happy to adjust. Given current shortages, be understanding if some items are not available.

A simple food day in Jaffna

Start early with thosai or idli at a small breakfast shop, along with sweet milky tea. Mid-morning, walk the market near the bus stand to see dried fish, palmyra products, vegetables and spices piled high; it is the best way to understand what goes into the local kitchen. For lunch, find a rice-and-curry place and order the crab, or a fish curry if crab is not on the menu that day. Rest through the hottest hours. In the late afternoon, head for ice cream, then take a walk along the lagoon near the fort as the light softens. Dinner can be kothu roti from a street-side stall, the clatter of the metal blades announcing it from far away.

Cooking at home afterwards

Many visitors leave Jaffna with a packet of roasted curry powder. If you do, use it sparingly at first: it is often far stronger than the curry powders sold elsewhere. A little goes a long way in a fish or chicken curry, and the roasted aroma is unmistakable. Some guest houses are happy to show interested guests how they cook, and an hour in a home kitchen can teach you more than any recipe.

When to go

The north is driest and hottest from around March to September, while the northeast monsoon brings rain from around October to December. Early in the year is often considered pleasant, with green fields and slightly cooler evenings. Whatever the season, carry water and plan to rest in the heat of the day.

Beyond the plate

Jaffna rewards a few days of exploration. The Nallur Kandaswamy temple is one of the most important Hindu temples in Sri Lanka; men usually remove their shirts before entering, so check the dress code. The Jaffna Fort, built by the Portuguese and rebuilt by the Dutch, stands by the lagoon. The public library, burned in 1981 and later rebuilt, is a powerful symbol of the city’s history. Out on the islands, Nainativu has both Hindu and Buddhist pilgrimage sites, reached by causeway and boat.

Being a respectful visitor

Jaffna and the north suffered greatly during the civil war, which ended in 2009, and memories of it remain raw. Be thoughtful in conversation, avoid photographing military installations, and follow signs about restricted areas. Many people are proud to share their culture and food, and a genuine interest in both is usually warmly received.

Where to stay

Jaffna has guest houses and a few hotels in and around the town. Family-run places often offer home-cooked meals, which may be the best food you eat. In the current situation, ask in advance about power backup and whether meals can be provided.

A first meal to remember

Picture it: a plate of rice, a bowl of crab curry glowing red, a few pieces of fried fish, a spoon of sambol, and a lime juice sweating in the heat. The ceiling fan turns slowly, and the family at the next table laughs as you reach for more water. That is a Jaffna welcome. It is worth the long journey north.