Every first trip to a new place comes with a list of things you are told you must do. Punjab is no exception. Friends will insist on a particular dhaba, a particular market, a particular ceremony. Travel sites will give you twenty places in Amritsar alone. Some of this advice is excellent. Some of it will cost you hours you would rather spend elsewhere. This is a short, honest guide to what a first-time visitor to Punjab can safely skip, and what to do instead.
None of this is a criticism of the places themselves. It is simply a question of time. Most first trips to Punjab are short, and the best ones leave space for the unexpected.
Skip: visiting the Golden Temple only at midday
The most common mistake is to visit the Harmandir Sahib once, in the middle of the day, when the marble is hot, the queues are long and the light is flat. You will still be moved, but you will miss the temple at its most beautiful.
Instead: Go at least twice. Once before dawn, when the sanctum glows against the dark sky and the kirtan fills the quiet, and once at night, when the whole complex is lit and reflected in the sacred pool. If you can stay close enough to walk, it becomes easy to return whenever you like.
Skip: the rushed restaurant meal near the temple
The lanes around the temple are full of eateries promising the most authentic food. Some are very good. But if you only have a few meals in Amritsar, do not let one of them be a hurried plate in a crowded tourist restaurant.
Instead: Eat at the langar, the community kitchen of the Golden Temple, at least once. The food is simple, vegetarian and served to everyone equally, and the experience is unforgettable. For other meals, ask locals where they eat: a shopkeeper, your driver, or the person at your guesthouse. You will often be sent somewhere small and excellent.
Skip: trying to see every gurdwara in a day
Punjab has hundreds of historic gurdwaras, each with its own story. Some itineraries try to string many of them together in one exhausting day.
Instead: Choose one or two and spend real time there. Sit, listen, share a cup of tea, and perhaps help in the kitchen. A single quiet afternoon at a village gurdwara can teach you more about Punjab than a dozen rushed stops.
Skip: the border ceremony, if it means a lost day
The Beating Retreat ceremony at the Attari-Wagah border is famous, loud and patriotic, and many people love it. But it involves a long drive, long waits, security checks and big crowds. Public access has also been restricted at times over the past year, so check current arrangements before you plan around it.
Instead: If the ceremony is open and you are excited about it, go, but go early and accept that it will take most of the afternoon. If it is closed, or you are short on time, do not feel you have missed Punjab. Spend the evening instead at the Golden Temple, or walking through the old city as the lights come on.
Skip: shopping in large showrooms only
Amritsar’s markets are full of phulkari, juttis, shawls and dry fruits, and large showrooms make it easy to buy everything in one place.
Instead: Wander the smaller bazaars around the temple and buy from family-run shops. Ask about where things are made. A hand-embroidered phulkari dupatta takes many hours of work, and buying directly supports the women who make them. Bargain politely, but do not haggle over small amounts.
Skip: treating Punjab as only Amritsar
Many first-time visitors fly in, spend two days in Amritsar and fly out. It is understandable, but it leaves most of the state unseen.
Instead: If you can, add at least one day elsewhere. Anandpur Sahib, against the Shivalik hills, is one of the most important places in Sikh history. Patiala has its forts and palaces. Kapurthala has surprising European and Moorish-style buildings. Or simply spend a day in the countryside, among the fields and villages, where most Punjabis live.
Skip: overeating on day one
Punjabi food is famously rich and generous, and it is tempting to try everything on your first evening: butter chicken, kulcha, lassi, jalebi and more. Many visitors regret it the next morning.
Instead: Pace yourself. Start with simpler dishes like dal, fresh roti, seasonal greens and buttermilk. Save the richer meals for later in the trip. Your stomach, and your sleep, will thank you.
Skip: photographs without permission
Punjab’s people are warm and often happy to be photographed. But at gurdwaras and in villages, taking pictures without asking can feel intrusive. Photography is not allowed inside the inner sanctum of the Golden Temple.
Instead: Ask first. Most people will smile and agree. Put the camera down for a while, too. Some of the best moments, like sitting beside the sacred pool at dawn, are better remembered than recorded.
Skip: tight schedules in the fog
Early mornings in Punjab in winter can be very foggy, and trains and road journeys can be delayed. Even in February, the first hours of the day may be hazy.
Instead: Build slack into your plans. Avoid driving at night or in thick fog. Choose trains or flights with some margin before important connections. Treat a slow morning as an invitation to linger over breakfast.
Skip: arriving without checking current rules
Over the past year, opening hours, access rules and gatherings at many sites in Punjab have changed, sometimes at short notice. Some places, like Jallianwala Bagh, have also been under renovation.
Instead: Check official sources or call ahead before you travel. Carry a mask, follow local guidelines, and stay flexible. A plan with room to adjust is far less stressful than one that depends on everything being open.
What not to skip
Do not skip the dawn at the Golden Temple. Do not skip the langar. Do not skip at least one conversation with a stranger who invites you for tea. Do not skip a walk through a wheat field, and do not skip the chance to hear kirtan or folk music. These are the things that make a first trip to Punjab unforgettable.
A final word
The best first trip to Punjab is not the one with the most stops. It is the one where you slowed down enough to accept its hospitality. Skip a few things, and you will find that Punjab fills the space with something better.
More from Issue 22
- February 2021: Inside This Issue
- Editor’s Letter: Punjab, Generous and Unhurried
- Punjab The land of five rivers
- Amritsar, the ‘Spiritual Capital of Punjab’
- Around Amritsar
- Anandpur Sahib ‘The City of Bliss’
- Around Fatehgarh Sahib
- Fatehgarh Sahib, Sacred Pilgrimage Site
- The Wonderful ‘Patiala’ City
- Amritsar to Anandpur Sahib: The One Route That Explains Punjab
- Three Days in Punjab, Not a Checklist
Kerala Ayurveda: A Traditional Healing Art
Pondicherry in 72 Hours, on Foot
Mathura – Where Legends Embrace Divinity
The Town You Sleep In
Why the base town shapes a monsoon waterfall trip more than any single fall, what to look for, and towns in Karnataka, Kerala and Goa worth considering.
One village ghat upriver
Train versus road that week
Markets before the 20th, not on it
Journeys Worth Discovering
Explore inspiring destinations, memorable journeys and travel stories from across India and beyond.
Explore destinations
