Desert Festivals: Jaisalmer and the Rann of Kutch (Issue 82)

Welcome to Issue 82 of Travel Viewpoint, our February 2026 edition. This month we head west, to the two great deserts of India’s western edge: the golden sand of the Thar around Jaisalmer in Rajasthan, and the white salt plain of the Rann of Kutch in Gujarat.

The timing is not an accident. Jaisalmer’s Desert Festival, the Maru Mahotsav, returns from 30 January to 1 February 2026, and Gujarat’s Rann Utsav runs through the winter to 20 February, with its tent city advertised as open into early March. For a few weeks each year, these remote landscapes fill with music, colour and travellers. We wanted to give you the practical guidance to enjoy those weeks, and also the quieter stories that make a desert trip stay with you long after the sand has been shaken from your shoes.

Here is what is inside.

Start here

Editor’s letter: Desert Festivals — Why we chose the desert this February, and what we learned about crowds, silence and the hour before sunrise.

Desert Festival and Rann Utsav 2026: Dates and What to Know — The announced dates for both festivals, full moon nights, permits and how to combine them. Check here first if you are planning a trip.

Jaisalmer and the Thar

Dune Bashing in Jaisalmer — The adrenaline side of the desert: where rides run, how to choose a safe operator and how to keep a dune drive from spoiling the dunes for everyone else.

Sam Sand Dunes Jaisalmer — The most famous dunes in Rajasthan, and how to see them well: when to go, choosing a camp, sunrise versus sunset and what changes during the festival.

Jaisalmer Fort — The golden fort on Trikuta hill, one of Rajasthan’s UNESCO-listed hill forts: its history, palace and Jain temples, with practical tips for a respectful visit.

Jaisalmer When the Fort Is Still a Neighbourhood — A slow morning inside the walls, among the families who still live there, and the conservation questions that come with a living fort.

Camels Are Optional: The Thar Desert Without a Safari Package — Village walks, birding, quieter dunes and other ways to know the Thar without the standard sunset package.

A Guest Night in a Family Haveli in Jaisalmer — Our guest writer’s account of a night as a paying guest in a family home in the old town.

The Rann of Kutch

The Rann at the Edge of the Tent City — The craft villages, salt workers and landscapes that lie beyond the festival grounds at Dhordo.

The Hour the White Desert Is Empty — The case for dawn on the White Rann, when the crowds of the full moon night have gone home.

Putting it together

Three Nights, Two Deserts: Jaisalmer and the Rann of Kutch — A tight, realistic itinerary for travellers who want to see both deserts in one trip, long road day included.

How we put this issue together

Every guide in this issue aims to be practical, but some details change quickly in the desert: festival programmes, camp prices, permit rules, flight schedules and road conditions. Where we were unsure, we have said so. Please check official sources, especially Rajasthan Tourism and Gujarat Tourism, before booking, and tell us if you spot something that has changed.

We have also tried to write with care about the people who live in these places. Jaisalmer’s fort is home to families, not just a monument. The Rann is worked by salt farmers and surrounded by villages whose crafts are their living. Travel that respects them, by staying longer, buying directly and treading lightly, is better travel for everyone.

A note on seasons

Both deserts are at their best in the cool months. Days are warm and bright, nights are cold, and the light at either end of the day is extraordinary. Pack layers, a scarf against dust, sunscreen and a refillable water bottle. If you can, plan at least one early morning in each place. The desert keeps its best hour for those who wake up for it.

Three ways to use this issue

If you have a long weekend: base yourself in Jaisalmer for the Desert Festival. Spend one morning in the fort, one evening at Sam and one early start on quieter dunes. Read the fort, Sam and dune bashing guides first, then the haveli stay for a sense of where to sleep.

If you have a week: do both deserts. Arrive in Jaisalmer for the festival, take the long road south to Kutch, and give the Rann at least two nights so you can see it both in the evening and at dawn. Our three-night itinerary is a compressed version; stretch it if you can.

If you dislike crowds: go after the festivals. The tent city in Kutch is advertised as open into early March, and Jaisalmer’s dunes and lanes are calmer once the festival weekend has passed. Several of our stories, from the empty hour on the White Rann to the Thar without a safari package, are written with you in mind.

What to pack

Warm layers for cold nights, and a light jacket for early mornings.
A scarf or buff for dust and sun, plus sunglasses and a hat.
Sunscreen and lip balm; the desert air is dry.
Comfortable shoes for uneven fort lanes and soft sand.
A refillable water bottle and a small bag for your own rubbish.
Printed copies of ID and any permits; signal can be patchy in remote areas.

A word on photography

Both deserts are dazzling to photograph, but please photograph people with consent. Ask before taking portraits, especially of women and children, and respect a refusal. In the fort lanes, remember that doorways are often the entrances of private homes.

Coming up

Next month we leave the sand behind. As always, you can browse previous issues in our archive, including last month’s Issue 81 on the snow destinations of India.

Thank you for reading. We hope this issue helps you find your own quiet corner of the desert.