Leeches, Landslides and the Honest Monsoon Packing List

Most packing lists for the monsoon are cheerful and slightly useless: a cute umbrella, a waterproof phone pouch, “comfortable shoes”. If you are heading into the Western Ghats in July, you need something more honest. This list is about staying safe, staying reasonably dry and being prepared for the three things that define monsoon travel in the Ghats: rain that does not stop, leeches that do not give up and slopes that sometimes give way.

The landslide part first

We start here because it matters most. Parts of the Western Ghats are prone to landslides during heavy monsoon rain, especially in steep areas where slopes have been cut for roads, construction or plantations. In July 2024, landslides in the Mundakkai and Chooralmala area of Wayanad, Kerala, killed a very large number of people. Landslides and road collapses also occur periodically in Kodagu, the Konkan and other parts of the Ghats.

You cannot pack against a landslide. You can travel in a way that reduces your exposure:

Check weather alerts daily. The India Meteorological Department (IMD) issues colour-coded district alerts. An orange or red alert for heavy to extremely heavy rain is a reason to stay put.
Follow local authority advisories. District administrations sometimes close tourist spots, ban night travel on ghat roads or restrict trekking during heavy rain. Respect these.
Avoid travel at night on hill roads in the monsoon.
Listen to your host. People who live in the Ghats know which roads and slopes worry them.
Notice warning signs. Fresh cracks in the ground or road, tilting trees or poles, sudden muddy water in streams, and unusual sounds from slopes are reasons to move away.
Keep your plans flexible. Build in an extra day, and do not insist on leaving on a day when the roads are risky.

Leeches

Leeches are a fact of life in the monsoon Ghats. They live in leaf litter and grass on forest and plantation paths and are very good at finding feet and ankles. Their bite is usually painless, and in most cases harmless, though it can bleed for a while because of an anticoagulant in their saliva.

What helps:

Leech socks. Tall cloth socks worn over regular socks and tucked into trousers, sold in many hill towns and online. They are the single most effective tool.
Long trousers tucked into socks.
Salt, or a pouch of salt. Some walkers carry a small cloth bag of salt to dab on leeches. Locals in some areas use tobacco powder or soap.
Repellent. Some insect repellents applied to shoes and socks help a little.
Checking. After every walk, check feet, ankles, legs and the waistband.

If a leech attaches, do not pull it off; let salt or a sprinkle of something make it drop off, or wait until it falls off. Clean the bite with water and apply antiseptic. Bleeding should stop on its own; if a bite becomes very red, swollen or painful over the next days, see a doctor.

Footwear

This is where most people go wrong. In the monsoon Ghats, you need grip above all.

Shoes with deep, soft rubber lugs. Trail shoes or hiking shoes with a good sole are ideal. Many local trekkers swear by inexpensive rubber-soled sports shoes or even traditional rubber “monsoon” footwear.
Not leather. Leather boots get heavy and never dry.
Not fashion sneakers. Smooth soles are dangerous on wet rock.
A second pair. Something to wear in the evening while the first pair dries, which it may not.
Sandals with straps for the room and short village walks.

Rain gear

A poncho or long raincoat. A poncho covers you and your backpack and ventilates better than a jacket in warm humidity.
A small umbrella for village walks and estate paths, but not for trekking in wind.
Quick-dry clothes. Synthetic or blended fabrics dry faster than cotton. Avoid jeans.
Dry bags or zip-lock bags for phone, documents, cash and electronics.
A pack cover for your backpack.
A spare set of dry clothes sealed in a bag, always.

Health kit

Personal medicines, with extra days’ supply in case you are delayed.
Antiseptic and plasters for leech bites and scrapes.
Oral rehydration salts.
Mosquito repellent. Mosquito-borne illnesses rise in the monsoon in many parts of India.
Anti-fungal powder. Damp feet for days invite fungal infections.
Motion sickness tablets if hairpin bends affect you.

Power and light

A torch or headlamp with spare batteries. Power cuts are common during storms.
A power bank. Charge it whenever you have electricity.
Offline maps. Mobile data can be patchy in the hills.
A list of emergency numbers, including your host, local police and India’s national emergency number, 112.

Documents and money

Photo ID in a waterproof bag.
Some cash. Card and digital payments are widely accepted in India, but networks fail in storms and some small homestays and eateries prefer cash.
Booking confirmations saved offline.
Any permits for trekking or forest entry; see our permit and homestay notes.

Things to leave behind

White clothes.
Expensive shoes you care about.
Too many electronics.
A fixed itinerary.

When to turn back

Most important of all: know when to turn back. If a stream on your path is rising, if a trail looks unstable, if rain becomes very heavy, if guides or forest staff advise against going on, or if you are simply tired and slipping, stop. The Ghats will still be there next year. You need to be too.

A final word

None of this should put you off. A monsoon trip to the Western Ghats is one of the great Indian travel experiences. It simply requires a little preparation, a lot of flexibility and respect for the power of the rain. Pack honestly, travel carefully and you will come home soaked, happy and safe.