Vattavada and Marayoor: The Quieter Side of Munnar

Munnar is one of Kerala’s best-loved hill stations, and with good reason. Its tea gardens roll over the hills like green velvet, and in the monsoon the mist hangs over them in the mornings. But Munnar is also busy, with traffic in town, crowded viewpoints and a lot of development. An hour or two beyond it, on the eastern side of the hills, lies a quieter world: the sandalwood forests and ancient dolmens of Marayoor, the jaggery sheds of Kanthalloor, and the terraced vegetable farms of Vattavada. This is the quieter valley beside the famous one.

A different side of the hills

Marayoor, Kanthalloor and Vattavada sit in the Idukki district of Kerala, close to the border with Tamil Nadu, on the eastern slopes of the Western Ghats. This area lies in a partial rain shadow, which means it often receives noticeably less rainfall than Munnar during the south-west monsoon. In July, when Munnar can be wrapped in cloud for days, the Marayoor side may see lighter rain and drier spells, though this varies by year and is not guaranteed.

The landscape is different too. The tea gardens give way to scrub and dry deciduous forest, sandalwood trees, sugarcane fields and terraced farms growing vegetables and fruit that are unusual for Kerala.

Marayoor: sandalwood and dolmens

Marayoor is known for its natural sandalwood forests, among the few in Kerala, which are protected and managed by the forest department. Sandalwood is valuable, and the trees are carefully guarded. The forest department has run a sandalwood depot and sales outlet in the area; ask locally about what is open to visitors.

Marayoor is also known for dolmens, megalithic burial structures made of stone slabs, believed to date back thousands of years. Several clusters of these dolmens, sometimes called “muniyaras” locally, stand on rocky hillsides around the village. Some rock shelters in the area have ancient paintings. Visiting these sites gives a sense of the long human history of these hills, far older than the tea estates.

Marayoor jaggery

Marayoor jaggery (sharkara) is made from sugarcane grown in the area and is known across Kerala. It has received a Geographical Indication (GI) tag. In small sheds around Marayoor, sugarcane juice is boiled in large pans over fires until it thickens, then shaped by hand into balls. If you visit when production is under way, you may be able to watch, and buy jaggery directly from the makers.

Kanthalloor: orchards in Kerala

A few kilometres from Marayoor, Kanthalloor is a village of orchards and farms. Its cool climate allows crops that grow in few other places in Kerala, such as apples, oranges, plums, passion fruit and other temperate fruits in small quantities. Fruit seasons vary, and July is not the main harvest for most of these, but the farms are green and the village quiet. Some farmers welcome visitors; ask before entering private land.

Vattavada: terraces and vegetables

Vattavada, north-east of Munnar towards the Kodaikanal side, is a farming village in a high valley, known for its terraced fields growing vegetables like cabbages, carrots, beans, garlic and potatoes, as well as strawberries. The terraces, carved into the hillside, make a striking landscape, especially when the clouds drift over them. Vattavada feels like a different world from the tea country: houses cluster together, people speak Tamil as much as Malayalam, and the rhythm of life follows the farming seasons.

The Chinnar connection

On the way from Marayoor towards the Tamil Nadu border lies the Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary, a rain-shadow forest known for its dry habitat, grizzled giant squirrels, star tortoises and other wildlife. The sanctuary has run eco-tourism programmes, including guided walks and treks. Check with the Kerala Forest Department or its eco-tourism office for what is available in the monsoon. The highway through the sanctuary is a public road, but stopping and leaving the road is restricted.

Getting there

From Munnar, a road runs north-east through tea country and the Eravikulam National Park area towards Marayoor. This road can be affected by landslides and fog in the monsoon, so drive only in daylight and check conditions before setting out. Vattavada is reached by another road from Munnar towards Top Station. Public buses run in the area, but a hired car with a local driver is easier for a short trip.

Where to stay

Accommodation in Marayoor, Kanthalloor and Vattavada is simpler than in Munnar: small homestays, farm stays and a few resorts. That is part of the appeal. Look for places run by local families, ask about meals and confirm access roads in the rain.

A gentle itinerary

Day 1: Leave Munnar in the morning. Drive towards Marayoor, stopping at viewpoints when the mist allows. Visit a jaggery shed and the dolmen sites. Stay in Marayoor or Kanthalloor.
Day 2: Walk through Kanthalloor’s orchards and farms. Consider a guided walk in Chinnar if available. Return towards Munnar or stay another night.
Day 3: Visit Vattavada and its terraces. Return to Munnar or continue onwards.

A note on respect

These are working agricultural communities, not theme parks. Ask before photographing people or entering fields, buy from local farmers and producers, and keep noise and litter to a minimum. In protected forest areas, follow all forest department rules.

Why go

Munnar shows you the Kerala of tea postcards. Marayoor, Kanthalloor and Vattavada show you an older, more varied side of the same hills: sandalwood, stone burials, sugar boiling in iron pans, apples growing in Kerala, terraces climbing a valley. In the monsoon, when Munnar is wrapped in cloud and traffic, they offer a quieter, sometimes drier and deeply rewarding detour.