If there is one piece of advice we would give anyone who wants to enjoy the great Diwali markets of India, it is this: go before the festival, not on it. In 2025, Lakshmi Puja falls on Monday, 20 October in most calendars. The markets will be at their most crowded on Dhanteras, Saturday 18 October, and in the final rush on the day itself. But the week before, from roughly 12 to 17 October, is when the bazaars are at their most rewarding for a visitor: full of colour and energy, stocked for the season, and still navigable on foot.
This article explains why the timing matters, what you will find in the markets, and how to shop well.
Why before
On Dhanteras and Diwali itself, the old markets of India’s cities can become almost impassable. Families shop for gold, silver, utensils, clothes, sweets and puja items, all at the same time. Traffic is diverted, parking disappears, and in the narrowest lanes you may find yourself carried along by the crowd. Prices for some items rise with demand, and shopkeepers, understandably, have less time to talk.
On the last day, many shops also close early so that their owners can go home for the puja. If you arrive in the afternoon of Diwali hoping to browse, you may find shutters coming down.
In the days before, the atmosphere is different. The decorations are up, the stalls are full, and the sense of anticipation is everywhere. But there is space to breathe, time to bargain, and a chance to watch the market at work rather than simply survive it.
What the markets sell
Diwali markets vary from city to city, but certain things appear almost everywhere:
- Clay diyas, plain and painted, sold by potters often on the pavement.
- Rangoli colours in heaps of bright powder, with stencils and moulds.
- Lanterns, known in many places as kandeel or akash kandil, made of paper, cloth or bamboo.
- Marigold garlands and torans for the doorway.
- Idols of Lakshmi and Ganesha for the puja.
- Sweets and dry fruits, often in decorated gift boxes.
- Utensils of steel, brass and copper, traditionally bought on Dhanteras.
- Gold and silver, from coins to jewellery.
- New clothes, from everyday wear to festive outfits.
- Decorative lights, now often LED strings.
A few markets to know
We are deliberately general here, because markets change and we do not want to send you to a shop that has closed. But most Indian cities have an old bazaar district that comes alive in Diwali week. In Delhi, the lanes of the old city around Chandni Chowk are famous for sweets, silver, lights and wholesale goods. In Mumbai, markets such as Crawford Market and the streets of Dadar are well known for lanterns, flowers and festive goods. Jaipur’s old walled city, with its bazaars and illuminated façades, is especially atmospheric in the season. In Kolkata, the Diwali season overlaps with Kali Puja, and markets fill with lamps and festive goods. Ask locally which areas are best, and which days are busiest.
Shopping well
Shop with patience and a little caution. In crowded markets, keep your wallet and phone in a front pocket or a zipped bag. Carry some cash, as small vendors may not always accept cards, though digital payments are now very widely used. Bargaining is common in street stalls, less so in established shops with fixed prices. Be friendly; it is festival week.
For gold and silver, buy only from established jewellers and ask for a hallmark and a proper bill. Hallmarking of gold jewellery is now mandatory in much of India, and the mark helps confirm purity. For sweets, buy from busy shops with good turnover, and check how long the sweets will keep, especially milk-based ones if you are travelling.
Buy from the makers
The most rewarding purchases are often the simplest. A set of clay diyas bought from the potter who made them, a lantern from a family that has made them for generations, a heap of rangoli powder from a woman who has sold it in the same spot for years: these are the Diwali purchases that carry the festival home with you. They are also the purchases that most directly support local livelihoods.
Where you can, choose natural materials over plastic. Clay lamps, cotton wicks, paper lanterns and fresh flowers are more beautiful and kinder to the environment than many of the synthetic alternatives.
Timing your day
Even in the days before Diwali, markets are busiest in the evening, when people finish work and come out to shop and when the lights are most beautiful. If you want to shop, go in the late morning or early afternoon. If you want to see the market lit up, go at dusk, accept the crowds and leave your shopping list at home.
On the day itself
If you do find yourself in a market on Diwali, go early, buy only what you need for the evening, and head home well before dark. The real celebration that night is in homes and neighbourhoods, not in the bazaar.
Markets beyond the cities
Small towns have their own Diwali markets, often weekly or seasonal fairs that appear in the days before the festival. These can be wonderful places to find local crafts, fresh produce and handmade decorations. If you are staying in a smaller town, ask your hosts when the market is held and go along with them.
The pleasure of anticipation
A morning with the potters
If you want one market experience that captures Diwali, look for the potters. In the week before the festival, many cities have pavements and lanes where potters lay out thousands of freshly fired diyas, sometimes alongside clay idols and small decorative pots. Arrive in the morning, when the clay is still being unloaded and the sellers have time to chat. Ask how the lamps are made and how long they take to dry. Buy a few dozen, more than you think you need, and carry them carefully: there is no better souvenir of the season.
There is something special about the days before a festival. The town is preparing, the decorations are going up, and everyone is a little excited. Being in a market in that week, watching the lamps, lanterns and flowers pile up, is a way of sharing in the anticipation. Go before the 20th, not on it, and you will see the Diwali market at its best.
More from Issue 78
- Diwali getaways index
- Editor’s letter: Diwali Getaways
- A hill Diwali that is not a mall
- Varanasi can wait — this is the small-town version
- One courtyard, one diya, one neighbour
- Fireworks, smoke and the towns that skip them
- Train versus road that week
- A guest week in a family house
- Markets before the 20th, not on it
- Closures and surge fares
- A less-lit town worth the detour
- What to carry for a night of lamps
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Agra, The Magical Allure of UP
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Train versus road that week
Markets before the 20th, not on it
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