There is a particular kind of travel photograph that has become common during Navratri: a visitor in borrowed finery, posed in front of a blur of dancers, the circle reduced to scenery. This piece is about the other way to experience garba, as a participant and a guest, with the city and its people at the centre rather than behind you.
Garba is worship first
It is easy to forget, amid the lights and sound systems, that garba is a devotional practice. The word is commonly linked to garbha, the womb, and to the garbo, an earthen pot with a lamp inside that is often placed at the centre of the circle. The lamp is widely understood to represent life, or the divine energy of the goddess. Dancers move around it, usually counter-clockwise, in a form that many describe as a prayer expressed through movement.
Many evenings begin with an aarti to the goddess. Some participants fast through the day. In neighbourhood celebrations, the elders often lead the first rounds. When you understand this, a lot of etiquette follows naturally: you would not push through a congregation at a temple, and you should not push into a garba circle either.
Watch first
Before you join, stand at the edge and watch for a few songs. Notice the direction of movement, the pattern of steps, and how people enter and leave the circle. Notice whether there are separate circles for different groups or styles, which is common: there may be a slow inner ring for older people and children, a faster outer ring for experienced dancers, and sometimes separate dandiya areas where pairs strike sticks.
Watching also tells you the mood. Some circles are relaxed and welcoming; others are serious, practised groups who have rehearsed for weeks. Join the former, admire the latter.
How to join
The simplest way to join is to slip into the slowest, outermost ring at a natural gap, matching the speed of the people around you. Do not cut across the circle. If you are unsure of the steps, follow the person in front of you; mistakes are normal and forgiven. If you are a guest of a family or a society, ask them to bring you in. Many visitors find that someone will happily show them the basic two-clap or three-clap step.
If you are using dandiya sticks, be careful. They can hurt if swung wildly, and a beginner in a fast circle can be a hazard. Start slowly and stay with partners who are patient.
Footwear, food and phones
Practice varies from place to place. In some neighbourhood and temple settings, people dance barefoot near the shrine; at large grounds, most people wear comfortable footwear. Follow the lead of those around you. Do not eat or drink inside the circle, and keep plastic away from the shrine area. Put your phone away while dancing; a phone held up in a moving circle is both rude and dangerous.
Treating the city as a place, not a set
The phrase in our title matters. Navratri happens in real neighbourhoods where people live and work. Late-night music and traffic affect residents. Parking on a narrow lane can block someone’s gate. A tour group arriving at a housing-society courtyard can overwhelm a celebration designed for a few hundred neighbours.
Some practical ways to be a good guest:
- Go to private or society events only if you are invited, and ask whether you may bring others.
- Use shared transport or ride-hailing rather than parking in residential lanes.
- Keep your voice down when you leave late at night.
- Do not wander into the shrine area or touch ritual items without asking.
- Carry your rubbish away with you.
Spend locally
Navratri is an important economic season for many people in Gujarat: tailors and embroiderers who make chaniya cholis and kediyu jackets, jewellery sellers, snack vendors, musicians, decorators. You can support them by buying or renting your outfit locally rather than arriving fully kitted out from elsewhere, by eating at small stalls, and by tipping where it is customary.
We have deliberately not named shops or markets that may change, but your hosts will usually know where people in their neighbourhood go.
Respect the people in the circle
Not everyone in a garba circle wants to be photographed, interviewed or befriended by a stranger. Women and girls, in particular, may be uncomfortable with unknown men taking pictures or approaching them. If you want a photograph of a person, ask; if they say no, accept it graciously. If you are a man joining a circle, be aware of personal space and follow local norms, which may include separate circles or areas.
Respect the music
Live garba music, with drums, harmonium, singers and sometimes modern instruments, is the engine of the night. Musicians often play for hours. Do not climb onto stages, crowd the musicians or make song requests unless that is clearly the custom. A word of thanks at the end of the night is usually appreciated.
Respect the ending
Many celebrations end late, and some have local time limits on amplified music. When the music stops, the night is over. Leave calmly, without honking or shouting. The next morning, many residents will be at work or school.
A word about commercial events
Large ticketed garba events are part of modern Navratri, and many are well organised and genuinely devotional. They can be a good option for visitors who do not have local connections. The same etiquette applies, perhaps even more so, because crowds are larger and security is tighter. Follow the instructions of organisers and police, avoid pushing at entrances and exits, and keep valuables secure.
Learning before you go
If you have time before your trip, learn a little. Watch videos of basic garba steps, listen to traditional garba songs, read about the forms of the goddess honoured on each night. Many cultural organisations outside Gujarat also hold Navratri events, and attending one at home can give you confidence before you travel.
The reward
When it goes well, there is a moment, usually after an hour or so, when you stop thinking about your feet. The rhythm carries you, the circle carries you, and you realise you are no longer a visitor watching Gujarat dance. You are, for a few songs at least, part of it. That moment is worth far more than any photograph, and it only comes when you treat the city and its people as the point of the journey, not the background to it.
Before you leave
Thank your hosts. If you were welcomed into a society or family celebration, a small gift of sweets or a thank-you message the next day goes a long way. And if you come back next year, you may find yourself greeted by name.
More from Issue 77
- Navratri in Gujarat — issue index
- Editor’s letter: Navratri & Garba
- Garba without treating the city as a backdrop
- Ahmedabad nights and a quiet morning after
- Vadodara if Ahmedabad is full
- What to wear, and what not to film
- A first-timer’s nine nights, not all nine
- Food between the circles
- A family courtyard, not only the ticketed ground
- Dates, tickets and temple timings
- One village garba
- The photograph of the circle, not the selfie
Three Days in Hampi in January, Not a Checklist
Food you will not find on the poster
Visit Sarojini Nagar Market For Anything & Everything
The Town You Sleep In
Why the base town shapes a monsoon waterfall trip more than any single fall, what to look for, and towns in Karnataka, Kerala and Goa worth considering.
One village ghat upriver
Train versus road that week
Markets before the 20th, not on it
Journeys Worth Discovering
Explore inspiring destinations, memorable journeys and travel stories from across India and beyond.
Explore destinations
