October 2024 Issue: Dussehra Across India

Welcome to the October 2024 issue of Travel Viewpoint, Issue 66, devoted to Dussehra, the great autumn festival that marks the victory of good over evil across India. From the royal procession of Mysuru to the gathering of gods in Kullu and the long forest festival of Bastar, this issue takes you to the places where Dussehra is most alive, and offers practical advice on enjoying it without the stress.

Below you will find every story in this issue, with a short note on what each one offers.

Editor’s letter

Khushi Anand writes about the many faces of Dussehra across India, why festivals are not performances, and the quiet roadside moment in the Kullu valley that she remembers above all the big celebrations.

Where to Experience the Most Grand Dussehra Celebrations in India

Our round-up of India’s most spectacular Dussehra celebrations, from the effigies of the north to the processions of the south. The best place to start if you are still deciding where to go.

Top 10 Navratri Festival Destinations for Cultural Immersion

Nine nights of dance, devotion and colour lead up to Dussehra. This guide picks ten destinations where Navratri is celebrated with particular energy, from garba in Gujarat to Durga Puja in Bengal.

Wildlife Sanctuaries Reopening in October

Many of India’s national parks and sanctuaries reopen to visitors after the monsoon in October. Find out what to see, which parks reopen when, and how to plan a post-monsoon safari.

Why October is the Best Time to Explore India’s Fortresses

With the rains gone and the heat yet to return, October is ideal for exploring India’s forts. This feature explains why, and which fortresses to put on your list.

Intriguing Facts About Festivals, Forts and Forests

A light, fact-filled read about the festivals, forts and forests that make October such a special month to travel in India.

New this month: Mysore Dasara

Our expanded feature on one of India’s finest festival experiences. We trace Mysore Dasara from the Mahanavami celebrations of Vijayanagara and the royal patronage of the Wadiyars to today’s Nada Habba, with the goddess on Chamundi Hills, the elephants who arrive from the forest camps, the illuminated palace and the Jamboo Savari procession to Bannimantap.

New this month: Kullu Dussehra, the Valley Route

Kullu’s Dussehra begins when the rest of India’s ends. Our route follows the village deities down the Beas valley from Manali and Hadimba’s cedar forest, through the old capital of Naggar, to the Dhalpur Maidan in Kullu town, where Lord Raghunath’s chariot is pulled by devotees. We explain the legend of Raja Jagat Singh, how to watch the processions respectfully, and how to plan your stay.

New this month: Three Days of Mysuru Dasara

A slow, three-day plan for Mysuru during Dasara: Chamundi Hills and the illuminated palace on day one, the Devaraja Market, Jaganmohan Palace and Srirangapatna on day two, and the Jamboo Savari and torchlight parade on Vijayadashami. With notes on food, where to stay and how to move around the city.

New this month: What to Skip on Your First Dussehra Trip

Our honest list for first-time festival travellers. Skip trying to see every Dussehra at once, arriving on the last day, booking late, standing in the front row at the effigy burning and driving in the city centre, and replace them with habits that make festival travel joyful and safe.

New this month: Bastar Dussehra

In southern Chhattisgarh, Dussehra lasts about seventy-five days and is dedicated to Danteshwari Devi rather than Rama. Our story introduces the unique rituals of Bastar Dussehra, from the swing of thorns to the hand-built wooden chariot, and suggests a respectful four-day visit that includes Chitrakote falls, the weekly haats and the region’s crafts.

Dussehra dates in 2024

Dussehra follows the lunar calendar, so its date changes every year. In 2024, Navratri begins in early October and Vijayadashami falls in mid-October. Kullu’s celebrations begin on Vijayadashami and continue for about a week, while Bastar’s long cycle of rituals began months earlier and reaches its climax around the same time. Mysuru’s programme runs through all ten days of Navaratri. Always confirm the final schedule with the official festival or state tourism websites before you book, since individual events and timings can shift.

How to read this issue

If you are planning a trip for this year’s festival, start with the grand celebrations guide and our list of what to skip, then choose between Mysuru, Kullu and Bastar. If you prefer to travel after the festival, read the stories on October’s wildlife sanctuaries and fortresses, which make the most of India’s post-monsoon season.

Before you go

Every story in this issue shares a few simple principles.

Book accommodation and long-distance transport well in advance.
Confirm festival dates for the year, as Dussehra follows the lunar calendar.
Arrive before Vijayadashami, and stay on afterwards if you can.
Watch processions and effigies from a safe distance.
Dress modestly, follow organisers’ instructions and ask before photographing people and rituals.
Eat local, carry your own water bottle and leave no rubbish behind.

A season of celebration

October is one of the most rewarding months to travel in India. The monsoon has washed the land clean, the air is fresher, and the whole country seems to be celebrating. Whether you choose the elephants of Mysuru, the gods of Kullu, the forest rituals of Bastar or the effigies of your own home town, we hope this issue helps you see Dussehra with fresh eyes.

Coming next month

Our November 2024 issue turns inward, to the yoga retreat. From Rishikesh’s ashrams on the Ganga to quieter stays in the Himalaya, we look at how to choose a retreat, what to skip and how to make the most of a few days of stillness.

As always, we would love to hear from you. Tell us where you celebrated, what surprised you and which small moments you will remember. The best letters may find their way into a future issue.

Happy Dussehra, and see you next month.