Faizabad: The Quieter Nawabi City Beside Ayodhya

Just a few kilometres from the temples and ghats of Ayodhya lies a city with an entirely different story. Faizabad, Ayodhya’s twin, was once the capital of the Nawabs of Awadh, the rulers who later made Lucknow famous for its architecture, cuisine and culture. Today, most visitors to Ayodhya rush past it on the way to the Ram Mandir. That is a pity, because Faizabad offers something rare in this busy corner of Uttar Pradesh: quiet gardens, graceful tombs, old markets and a sense of a different, gentler past.

A note on names

In 2018, the Uttar Pradesh government renamed Faizabad district as Ayodhya district, and the two cities have grown together administratively and physically. Many people still use the name Faizabad for the older city and its neighbourhoods, and we use it here in that sense.

The Nawabi capital

Faizabad’s moment in history came in the eighteenth century. The early Nawabs of Awadh made the town their base, and under Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula, in particular, it grew into a significant capital, with palaces, gardens and fortifications. After Shuja-ud-Daula’s death in 1775, his son and successor, Asaf-ud-Daula, moved the capital to Lucknow, and Faizabad’s star faded. But many of its monuments remain, and so does an unmistakable Nawabi air.

Gulab Bari: the garden of roses

The best place to begin is Gulab Bari, the tomb of Nawab Shuja-ud-Daula. Its name means “garden of roses”, and the mausoleum stands within a walled garden laid out in the formal style, with water channels, fountains and paths leading to the central tomb. The building is a fine example of Nawabi architecture, with domes, arches and decorative plasterwork.

Gulab Bari is a protected monument. Visit in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is soft and the garden at its most peaceful. After the noise of Ayodhya’s temples, the stillness here is striking.

Bahu Begum ka Maqbara

Faizabad’s most impressive monument is often said to be the Bahu Begum ka Maqbara, the tomb of Bahu Begum, the wife of Shuja-ud-Daula. She was a powerful and wealthy figure in the Awadh court, and she continued to live in Faizabad long after the capital moved to Lucknow. Her mausoleum, built after her death in the early nineteenth century, is a tall, elegant structure that ranks among the finest Nawabi buildings outside Lucknow.

Take time to walk around the building and, where access is allowed, climb to the upper levels for views over the city. It is easy to imagine the grandeur of the Nawabi court from here.

Moti Mahal and other monuments

Faizabad has several other monuments associated with the Nawabi period, including Moti Mahal, a palace associated with Bahu Begum, and remnants of old gateways and walls. Some are better preserved than others, and access can vary. A local guide or knowledgeable rickshaw driver can help you find them, and will often have stories to tell about the people who built them.

Guptar Ghat: the quiet river

On the banks of the Saryu, on the Faizabad side, lies Guptar Ghat. In Hindu tradition, it is associated with the legend that Rama left the world by entering the waters of the Saryu here. The ghat has temples and steps leading down to the river, and it has been restored in recent years. It is generally much quieter than Ram ki Paidi and the central ghats of Ayodhya, making it a beautiful place for a dawn or dusk walk. Nearby is the area of the old cantonment, with its tree-lined roads.

Markets and food

Faizabad’s old markets, such as the area around Chowk, are lively, crowded and full of character. Wander among shops selling textiles, utensils, spices and sweets, and look out for older buildings above the shopfronts.

Food is one of the pleasures of a visit. Faizabad shares in the wider culinary traditions of Awadh, and you will find snacks such as kachori, samosas and chaat alongside sweets. Unlike in the central temple area of Ayodhya, non-vegetarian food is also more commonly available here, reflecting the city’s mixed heritage. Ask locals for their favourite places rather than relying on lists; tastes and recommendations change quickly.

A city of mixed heritage

What makes Faizabad worth visiting is not only its monuments, but its layered history. It has long been a place where Hindu and Muslim traditions coexist, a town of temples and mosques, of Nawabi tombs and sacred ghats. Spending a few hours here adds depth to any trip to Ayodhya, and a reminder that this region’s story is richer than any single narrative.

When to go

The best time to visit is from October to March, when the weather is pleasant. December and January can be cold, especially in the early mornings, and fog is common. Summers are very hot, and the monsoon brings humidity and rain.

Getting there

Faizabad lies a short drive from the temple area of Ayodhya, and the two are well connected by road. E-rickshaws, autos and taxis make the journey easily. The nearest airport is Maharishi Valmiki International Airport at Ayodhya, and the area is served by railway stations including Ayodhya Dham Junction and Ayodhya Cantt, formerly called Faizabad Junction. Lucknow is roughly three hours away by road.

Where to stay

Many visitors stay in Ayodhya and visit Faizabad for half a day, but staying in Faizabad itself can be a quieter option, especially during busy festival periods. Hotels and guesthouses are available at a range of prices; read recent reviews and check locations carefully before booking.

Tips for visiting

Combine Gulab Bari, Bahu Begum ka Maqbara and Guptar Ghat in a half-day trip from Ayodhya.
Visit monuments in the morning or late afternoon for the best light and fewer people.
Dress modestly, especially at religious sites.
Hire a local guide or ask your rickshaw driver for stories about the Nawabi past.
Check opening times and any entry fees locally, as these can change.

Why Faizabad matters

Ayodhya is a city of gods and legends. Faizabad is a city of kings, gardens and tombs. Together, they tell a fuller story of this part of India: sacred, royal, layered and endlessly interesting. If you have come all this way, give Faizabad a few hours. You may find that its quiet gardens and fading monuments are among the most memorable moments of your trip.