The Forests Reopen: Editor's Letter, October 2022

Dear readers,

Every year, somewhere between the last heavy shower and the first cool morning, India’s forests open their gates again. For three or four months, most national parks and tiger reserves close their core zones to visitors. The rains turn forest roads into streams of mud, rivers rise, grass grows taller than a jeep, and the animals get a season of relative peace. Then, in October, the gates swing open, the safari jeeps line up before dawn, and the first sightings of the season begin to circulate among guides, naturalists and photographers.

This issue is about that moment. Our October 2022 edition is dedicated to India’s wildlife, and especially to the feeling of returning to a forest after the monsoon. It is a time when the jungle is at its greenest, the waterholes are full, birds are arriving from the north, and every drive feels like a first visit.

Why October matters

For travellers, October is a month of transition. In much of central and northern India, the heat of summer is long gone, the humidity of the monsoon is fading, and the cold of winter has not yet set in. In the south, the north-east monsoon may still bring showers to some regions, so timing varies from park to park. The forest itself is thick and lush, which makes sightings harder than in the dry months of April and May, but the scenery is at its most beautiful.

It is also a month when many parks reopen in stages. Some open only part of their tourist zones at first, as forest departments check roads and repair bridges damaged by the rains. Opening dates are set by the state forest departments and can change from year to year, so please always check the official booking websites before planning a trip. We have tried to give general guidance in this issue, not fixed promises.

What is in this issue

We begin with a guide to Indian national parks that typically reopen in October, from the famous tiger reserves of central India to the forests of Rajasthan and the south. We have included a short note on what to expect from each and how to book responsibly.

Next, we travel to the west coast, where the end of the monsoon brings a wonderful season for birding. From the Konkan to Goa and coastal Karnataka, wetlands, estuaries and forests fill with resident and migratory birds. Our writer explains where to look and how to plan a gentle birding trip as the rains lift.

Then we spend a night in a forest rest house. India’s network of old forest bungalows, many built during the colonial period, offers some of the most atmospheric stays in the country. They are simple, often remote and sometimes difficult to book, but a night in one, listening to the sounds of the jungle, can be unforgettable.

We also cover core-zone rules after the rain. Every visitor to a tiger reserve should understand why the rules exist and how to behave in the forest. These rules protect animals and people, and they help ensure that wildlife tourism remains possible for future generations.

You will also find our earlier features on parks such as Ranthambore, Sariska, Bandipur and Nagarhole, and on Dandeli in Karnataka, which we are revisiting and updating.

A note on responsible travel

Wildlife tourism in India has grown enormously in recent years. That brings real benefits: income for local communities, support for conservation and a wider public appreciation of the country’s natural heritage. But it also brings pressure. Crowded safari routes, noisy vehicles, illegal baiting, littering and badly behaved visitors all harm the very wildlife we come to see.

We hope you will travel thoughtfully. Choose licensed guides and drivers. Respect the rules on speed, noise and distance. Never ask a driver to chase an animal or break the rules for a better photograph. Carry your rubbish out with you. Support local businesses and community-run stays where possible. And remember that a safari without a tiger can still be a wonderful day in the forest.

Planning your first safari

If this is your first safari, plan more than one drive. Three or four drives across two or three days give you a far better chance of good sightings, and a much richer sense of the forest, than a single rushed outing. Book permits early, especially for weekends and festival holidays, and use only the official forest department portals or trusted operators. Dress in muted colours, carry a warm layer for cold mornings, and bring binoculars if you have them.

The joy of not seeing a tiger

One of the most common disappointments for first-time safari visitors is not seeing a tiger. We understand. The tiger is magnificent, and the hope of a sighting is what draws many people to the forest. But we would encourage you to look beyond it.

India’s forests are home to extraordinary diversity. Leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, gaur, elephants, several species of deer and antelope, crocodiles, hundreds of species of birds, butterflies, reptiles, trees and flowers all make up the jungle. A morning watching a herd of chital, listening to the alarm calls of langurs, or following the flight of a crested serpent eagle can be as rewarding as any big cat sighting.

The best naturalists we know are endlessly curious about the small things. They notice pugmarks and scratch marks, read the behaviour of birds and monkeys, recognise trees by their bark and leaves, and find delight in every drive. We hope this issue encourages you to travel with the same curiosity.

Looking ahead

The forests will stay open through the winter and into the summer, and each season has its own character. October is green and fresh; winter brings cold mornings and migratory birds; spring brings flowering trees; summer brings heat and better chances of seeing animals at waterholes. We will return to the forests again in future issues.

Until then, we hope you enjoy this October edition. As always, we would love to hear about your own experiences, your favourite parks and your memorable sightings.

Wishing you happy and responsible travels,

Khushi Anand, Editor