Editor's Letter: Adventure Trekking in Maharashtra

Dear reader,

There is a particular kind of joy that belongs to the Sahyadri. It begins in the dark, usually somewhere around five in the morning, at the foot of a hill whose shape you can barely make out. It continues through a steep, sweaty climb on a path of loose stones and roots, past a village where someone is already lighting a fire for tea. And it arrives, if you are lucky, at a broken gateway on a ridge just as the sun clears the horizon and the whole Deccan seems to unfold beneath you. This issue of Travel Viewpoint is about that joy: adventure trekking in Maharashtra, and in particular the forts that crown so many of its hills.

Why the forts

Maharashtra has hundreds of hill forts. Some are vast, with walls that run for kilometres, granaries, water cisterns and temples. Others are little more than a few bastions and a rock-cut stairway. Many are associated with Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj and the rise of the Maratha state in the seventeenth century, though their histories are often much older, reaching back through the Deccan sultanates to earlier dynasties.

For trekkers, these forts are a gift. They give a walk a destination and a story. You do not simply climb a hill; you climb to a gateway that was once defended, to a cistern that once watered a garrison, to a viewpoint from which sentries once watched the passes below. History and landscape become a single experience.

What you will find in this issue

We begin with Harihar, the fort famous for its near-vertical rock-cut steps, which has become one of the most photographed treks in the state. We climb Rajgad, which served as an early capital of Shivaji’s kingdom, and whose sprawling ridges and machis make it a trek you can spend a whole day exploring.

Closer to Pune and Lonavala, we look at Lohgad, an accessible fort that is a fine first trek, and at Rajmachi, which is often approached on a long, gentle walk through forest and villages. Tikona, with its distinctive triangular profile, offers a short, steep climb with wide views over the Pavana area.

Further afield, we visit Pratapgad, near Mahabaleshwar, remembered for one of the most famous episodes in Maratha history, and Shivneri, near Junnar, revered as the birthplace of Shivaji Maharaj. We end with Irshalgad, a demanding climb to a pinnacle in the Raigad district that is best left to experienced trekkers.

Alongside these, we have two features from our archive that are being prepared for publication, on Bhandardara and the Karla Caves, places that many trekkers pass on their way to the hills.

A season for walking

February is one of the finest months to trek in the Sahyadri. The monsoon, when the hills turn an impossible green and waterfalls pour off every cliff, is spectacular, but it is also slippery, misty and sometimes dangerous. By February, the paths are dry, the skies are usually clear, and the mornings are cool enough to make a climb comfortable. The grass has turned golden, and the views stretch for miles.

The trade-off is heat. By late morning, the sun can be fierce, and there is often little shade near the top of a fort. So start early, carry more water than you think you need, and wear a hat. Plan to be heading down before midday.

Trekking responsibly

The popularity of fort treks has grown enormously in recent years, and that brings responsibilities. Please take every scrap of rubbish back down with you. Do not write on walls or carve names into ancient stone. Treat temples and memorials on the forts with respect. Do not play loud music on the trail; the silence is part of what you came for.

Safety matters too. Some of these treks involve exposed sections, steep rock steps and narrow ledges. Know your limits, trek with others, tell someone where you are going, and check weather and local advice before you set out. On busier weekends, the narrow steps on popular forts can become dangerously crowded, so consider going on a weekday or choosing a quieter fort.

And remember the villages. Many of the best treks begin in small settlements at the foot of the hills, where families sell tea, poha, bhakri and pithla to trekkers. Eating with them and paying fairly for food and guidance is one of the simplest ways to make sure that trekking benefits the people who live with these hills every day.

A word for first-timers

If you have never trekked before, do not start with Harihar or Irshalgad. Begin with a gentler fort such as Lohgad, go with an experienced friend or a reputable local group, and wear proper shoes with a good grip rather than sandals or fashion trainers. Carry a small backpack with water, some snacks, a light rain layer even in the dry season, a torch and a basic first-aid kit. Walk at your own pace, rest when you need to, and turn back if the weather changes or the path feels beyond you. The fort will still be there next weekend.

Why we walk

I have often wondered why so many people, young and old, wake up before dawn on a weekend to climb a hill in the heat. Part of it, surely, is the view. Part of it is the history. But I think the deeper reason is that a trek strips things back. For a few hours, there is only the path, your breath, your companions and the sky. When you reach the top, tired and dusty, you have earned something that cannot be bought.

That is what we hope this issue gives you: not only information about routes and difficulty, but also the encouragement to lace up your shoes and go.

Thank you

Thank you to the writers and trekkers who contributed to this issue, and to every reader who has sent us their trekking stories over the years. Route conditions, access rules and permits change, and forts are sometimes closed for conservation work or for safety reasons, so please check locally before you go. If you find that something we wrote is out of date, tell us.

See you on the trail.

Warmly,

Khushi Anand, Editor