Editor's Letter: Andhra Pradesh Travel Issue, April 2021

Dear reader,

Andhra Pradesh has one of the longest coastlines of any Indian state, a ribbon of beaches, fishing villages, river deltas and port towns along the Bay of Bengal. Behind it rise the Eastern Ghats, green and misty, with coffee gardens and tribal villages tucked into their valleys. And running through it, from west to east, are two of the great rivers of the south, the Krishna and the Godavari, carrying water, silt and centuries of history to the sea. This April issue of Travel Viewpoint is about Andhra Pradesh, a land that many travellers pass through and too few stop to know.

A note on the map

Some of the pieces in this issue, written over the years, describe places such as Hyderabad and Warangal, which belonged to the united state of Andhra Pradesh until 2014 and are now in Telangana. We have kept them in this issue because they belong to the same long history, the same language and the same shared culture of the Telugu-speaking lands. But I want to be clear about the map, so that you plan your journeys correctly. Hyderabad, Warangal and Nagarjuna Sagar’s western bank are in Telangana; Visakhapatnam, Vijayawada, Tirupati, Puttaparthi and Amaravati are in Andhra Pradesh.

A careful season

April is the start of the hot season along the coast and in the plains, and by May temperatures can be very high. If you travel this month, start early, rest through the middle of the day, and head for the hills of Araku or the sea breeze of Visakhapatnam where you can. We are also travelling in uncertain times once again. Please check the latest official guidance before any journey, follow local rules at temples and public places, and be ready to change your plans. There is no shame in postponing a trip; these places will wait for you.

Inside this issue

We open with an introduction to the antique land of Andhra, from its Buddhist past to its temple towns and its modern cities. Then we visit the hi-tech city of Hyderabad and the historic town of Warangal, with its Kakatiya-era gateways and temples, and the places around Hyderabad that make easy excursions.

On the coast, we travel to Visakhapatnam, the jewel of the east coast, a port city with long beaches, green hills and a strong naval tradition. Inland, we visit Nagarjuna Sagar and Nagarjunakonda, where the dam on the Krishna created a huge reservoir and the remains of an ancient Buddhist centre were moved to an island museum. We go to Puttaparthi, the pilgrim town associated with Sathya Sai Baba, and to Vijayawada, the city of victory on the Krishna, with the Kanaka Durga temple on the Indrakeeladri hill.

Two new features

This month we also have two new pieces. The first follows one route, from Visakhapatnam up into the Eastern Ghats to the Araku valley, and argues that this single journey from sea to hills explains Andhra Pradesh better than any list of sights. The second suggests how to spend three slow days around Vijayawada and Amaravati, among rivers, caves, temples and the remains of one of India’s great Buddhist sites.

A Buddhist land

One aspect of Andhra Pradesh that surprises many visitors is its Buddhist history. Long before the great temples of the south were built, the Krishna valley was home to important Buddhist centres. Amaravati, near Vijayawada, had a great stupa whose carved marble panels are now scattered among museums in India and abroad. Nagarjunakonda, Salihundam, Thotlakonda and Bavikonda near Visakhapatnam all have remains of monasteries and stupas. Visiting these quiet sites, often with few other people around, is a reminder of how deep and varied the history of this land is.

Temples and faith

Andhra Pradesh is also home to some of the most visited temples in India. The temple of Sri Venkateswara at Tirumala, in the hills above Tirupati, draws pilgrims from all over the world, and the Kanaka Durga temple in Vijayawada, Simhachalam near Visakhapatnam, and Srisailam on the Krishna are all great centres of devotion. When you visit, follow the dress codes and customs of each temple, and check in advance about darshan arrangements and booking, which may have changed.

The rivers and the delta

Between Vijayawada and the sea, the Krishna and Godavari deltas form one of the richest farming landscapes in India. Paddy fields, coconut palms, canals and small towns stretch for miles, and the backwaters of the Godavari near Rajahmundry and the Konaseema region offer a quieter, greener side of the state that few travellers see. A boat ride on the Godavari through the Papikondalu hills is one of the most beautiful river journeys in the south, though services depend on water levels and official permission, so check before planning around it. If you have time, spend a day simply driving through the delta villages, stopping for tender coconut and watching the boats on the canals. It is a gentle landscape, and a lovely counterpoint to the busy temple towns.

Food

Andhra food is famous for its heat, and it deserves the reputation. But it is also wonderfully varied. Try a full Andhra meal on a banana leaf, with rice, pappu, rasam, vegetable curries, gongura pickle made from sorrel leaves, crisp appadams and curd to cool everything down. On the coast, the seafood is outstanding. In Araku, try bamboo chicken and the local coffee. And everywhere, look out for pesarattu, the green moong dosa, for breakfast.

Crafts

The state’s crafts are worth seeking out: Kondapalli wooden toys, Etikoppaka lacquerware, Kalamkari paintings from Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam, Mangalagiri and Venkatagiri handlooms. Many are made by small family workshops. Buy directly where you can.

Thank you

Thank you for reading, and for continuing to share your travel stories with us through such a long and difficult year. I hope this issue gives you a fuller picture of Andhra Pradesh, from its beaches to its hills, its rivers to its temples, and that when the time is right you will go and see it for yourself. Travel safely, and travel kindly.

With warm wishes,

Khushi Anand, Editor