Kerala Travel: Slow Water and Green Hills

Dear readers,

As the year comes to a close, we turn to a state that many travellers describe as one of the gentlest places in India to spend time: Kerala. Our December issue is about slow water and green hills, about backwaters, tea estates, coastal towns and the food and traditions that tie them together.

Kerala is a narrow strip of land between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats. Within a few hours, you can move from beaches and fishing harbours to backwaters lined with coconut palms, and then up into hills covered in tea, cardamom and forest. That variety, packed into a relatively small area, is one of the reasons Kerala has become such a popular destination for travellers from India and abroad.

But popularity brings its own challenges. Many visitors see Kerala as a checklist: one night on a houseboat, one night in Munnar, one afternoon at a beach, a quick Ayurvedic massage. The result can feel rushed, and the real character of the place, its rhythms and its people, can slip past unnoticed. In this issue, we have tried to slow things down.

What’s in this issue

We begin with pieces that celebrate some of Kerala’s best-known experiences. Our story on the tea gardens takes you into the hills, where neat rows of tea bushes cover the slopes and mist drifts through the valleys in the mornings. Our houseboat journey explores the backwaters, where life moves at the pace of the water. We also look at Ayurveda, the traditional system of healing that is closely associated with Kerala, and at the state’s cuisine, with its coconut, spices, rice and seafood. A broader essay considers Kerala’s traditions, diversity and culture.

Alongside these, we have added new pieces that focus on how to travel well.

Our route story follows a classic loop from Kochi to Munnar and down to Alappuzha, and explains why this simple route tells you so much about Kerala: the trading history of the coast, the plantation economy of the hills and the water world of the backwaters.

Our three-day guide to Fort Kochi is not a checklist. It is a plan for walking, eating and watching, built around the old streets, churches, synagogue, warehouses and waterfront of one of India’s most layered small towns.

Our “what to skip” piece offers honest advice for first-time visitors: the rushed itineraries, the overpriced packages, the crowded viewpoints and the habits that can make a Kerala trip less enjoyable.

We also introduce Vagamon, a quieter hill area in Idukki district, with rolling meadows, pine forests and tea estates, often less crowded than the famous Munnar.

Finally, our practical guide covers food, stay and how you actually move around Kerala, from trains and buses to hired cars and ferries.

The case for slow travel in Kerala

Kerala rewards those who stay longer. The backwaters reveal themselves slowly, as you drift past villages, churches, temples, paddy fields and people going about their daily lives. The hills feel different at dawn, at noon and in the evening. Fort Kochi is best explored on foot, over several days, as you notice details in the architecture and the layers of history.

We encourage you to choose fewer places and stay longer in each. Spend two or three nights in each base. Leave time for walks, for conversations with hosts, for unplanned meals and for doing nothing at all. Kerala’s pace is part of its charm; try to match it.

Travelling responsibly

Kerala’s natural beauty is fragile. The backwaters, hills and coasts face pressures from tourism, development and climate change. Floods in recent years have reminded everyone how vulnerable the landscape can be. As travellers, we can help by choosing responsible operators, reducing plastic, respecting local communities and supporting local businesses.

On houseboats, ask about waste management and choose operators who follow good practices. In the hills, stay on marked paths and avoid disturbing wildlife. In towns, buy from local shops and eat at local restaurants. Respect religious places, dress modestly where appropriate and ask before photographing people.

When to go

Kerala is often described as having two monsoons, the southwest monsoon in the middle of the year and a later northeast monsoon. The cooler, drier months, roughly from October or November to February, are the most popular for travel, and December falls in that window, which is part of why we chose this month for our Kerala issue. The monsoon has its own beauty, with lush landscapes and lower prices, and some travellers seek it out for Ayurvedic treatments. Whatever the season, check the weather and any advisories before you travel, especially for hill roads.

Looking back on the year

This issue also brings our year to a close. Over the past months, we have explored mountains, coasts, deserts, cities and villages across India. We have written about famous destinations and quieter alternatives, about food and culture, about honeymoons and family trips. Throughout, our aim has been the same: to help you travel more thoughtfully, more slowly and with more understanding.

We are grateful to our readers for joining us on this journey. Your messages, questions and stories have shaped what we write. We hope our pieces have helped you plan trips, discover new places or simply dream about travel.

A note on facts

As always, we have tried to be careful with facts. Prices, timings, rules and road conditions change, and we encourage you to check current information before you travel. Where details are uncertain, we have said so. If you notice something that has changed, please let us know.

Looking ahead

As we look to the new year, we will continue to explore India’s diversity, with new destinations, new routes and new ways of seeing familiar places. We hope you will travel with us.

For now, we invite you to spend some time with Kerala: its slow water, its green hills, its spice-scented kitchens and its warm hospitality. Whether you are planning a trip or simply reading at home, we hope this issue brings you a little of Kerala’s calm.

Wishing you a peaceful end to the year and happy travels in the new one.

Warm regards,

Khushi Anand, Editor