Editor's Letter: India by Luxury Train (March 2022)

Dear reader,

There is a moment on every great train journey when the window stops being a window and becomes a screen. The city falls away, the fields open up, a station you will never stop at flashes past with its painted name and its tea seller, and you realise you have nowhere to be except here. This March, our pages are devoted to that feeling, and to the trains in India that have turned it into a kind of art.

Why luxury trains, and why this spring

India’s luxury trains have had a difficult two years. Like so much of the travel world, they fell silent during the pandemic, and for a long time it was unclear when, or whether, some of them would run again. As this issue goes to press, there are encouraging signs that operators are preparing to welcome guests back, though schedules remain in flux and we would urge anyone planning a journey to confirm departures directly with the operator before making other plans.

That uncertainty is one reason we wanted to revisit these trains now. They are not just expensive holidays. They are moving museums of Indian craft and hospitality, and they carry a particular idea of travel, slow, ceremonial and attentive, that is worth remembering even if you never buy a ticket.

What is in this issue

We begin with the train that started it all. The Palace on Wheels, launched in 1982, was conceived as a way to show Rajasthan to the world in royal style, and its story, from the original carriages to the train that runs today, is told in our lead article.

From there we travel across the country. The Maharajas’ Express, operated by Indian Railways’ catering and tourism corporation, offers several routes across north and central India and has been widely praised for its interiors. The Deccan Odyssey brings the same idea to Maharashtra and beyond, with journeys that combine the Konkan coast, the Ajanta and Ellora caves and the palaces of the west. The Golden Chariot does the same for Karnataka and the south, with Hampi, Mysuru and the forests of the Western Ghats among its highlights.

We also look back at the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels, a more recent sister to the Palace on Wheels, and at the Mahaparinirvan Express, a pilgrimage train linking places associated with the life of the Buddha. Our archive feature on the Palace on Wheels completes the set, although we are holding it back while we update it.

Three new pieces round out the issue. The first looks at the circuit that sits behind most of these itineraries: Delhi, Jaipur, Ranthambore and Agra, the routes the trains take and why. The second suggests a different way to enjoy rail travel in India for those who do not want, or cannot afford, a luxury fare: three days on the Kalka to Shimla railway, a UNESCO World Heritage line that rewards slow travel. The third is a frank guide to what to skip when booking a luxury train, so that if you do spend the money, you spend it well.

A note on money

Luxury trains are expensive, and we have not printed fares in this issue. Partly that is because they change from season to season and year to year. Partly it is because, after two years of disruption, published fares may not reflect what operators eventually charge. Please check the official websites for current prices, inclusions and cancellation terms.

We would also gently suggest that the value of a luxury train is not only in its price. Many of the experiences these trains offer, the forts of Rajasthan, the caves of Maharashtra, the ruins of Hampi, are available to every traveller. The trains package them in comfort and style, but the places themselves belong to everyone. Our pages try to keep both kinds of traveller in mind.

Why trains matter

Rail travel has a special place in Indian life. For many of us, our first long journeys were by train, and the memories, the sleeper berths, the tea in clay cups, the neighbour who shares food and stories, stay with us. Luxury trains are a long way from the general compartment, but they draw on the same romance. They remind us that travel can be about the journey as much as the destination.

They also matter to the places they serve. A luxury train stopping at a small town brings visitors who might otherwise never come, and supports guides, drivers, artisans and performers. As the trains return, those connections are part of what is being restored.

Travelling well

If you do book one of these journeys, a few thoughts. Read the itinerary carefully, and be honest with yourself about how much sightseeing you want. Many itineraries pack in a lot, and the best moments are often the unscheduled ones: a quiet hour in your cabin, a conversation with a fellow passenger, the sunrise from the observation lounge. Allow time before and after for the cities where you board and leave the train. And treat the staff, many of whom have waited through a long and uncertain period, with the warmth they show you.

A word on safety

Travel in 2022 still comes with health considerations. Operators have described new hygiene and safety measures, and requirements for guests may change as the situation evolves. Please read the current guidance from the operator and from the states you will pass through before you travel, and be patient with the staff who must apply those rules. A little flexibility on everyone’s part will make the return of these trains smoother.

Thank you

This issue draws on the work of writers who have documented these trains for our readers over many years, and on new reporting for 2022. We are grateful to all of them. As always, if you spot an error, or have a train journey you think we should write about, please tell us.

Wherever this spring takes you, by luxury train, by passenger train or by road, we hope you travel with your eyes open and your watch forgotten.

Warmly,

Khushi Anand, Editor