Three Days on the Kalka-Shimla Railway

Not everyone wants to spend a week on a luxury train, and not everyone can. But almost anyone can enjoy one of India’s great railway journeys, and few are more rewarding than the narrow-gauge line from Kalka to Shimla. This piece suggests three days built around it, not as a checklist but as a way to slow down.

The Kalka–Shimla Railway was opened in 1903 to connect the summer capital of British India with the plains. In 2008 it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage listing of the Mountain Railways of India, alongside the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway and the Nilgiri Mountain Railway. Its 96-odd kilometres of track climb through more than a hundred tunnels and across hundreds of bridges, from Kalka near Chandigarh to Shimla at roughly 2,000 metres.

Timetables and services have changed during the pandemic. Please confirm current trains and bookings with Indian Railways before planning.

Before you start

Kalka sits just beyond Chandigarh and Panchkula. Most travellers arrive from Delhi on an early train that connects with the morning departures up the hill, or spend a night in Chandigarh first. We recommend the latter. It turns a rush into a pleasure, and Chandigarh, Le Corbusier’s planned city, is worth an evening.

If you have time in Chandigarh, walk around Sukhna Lake at sunset and visit the Rock Garden, Nek Chand’s extraordinary creation built from recycled materials.

Day one: the climb

Board at Kalka in the morning. Several trains run on the line, from basic passenger services to more comfortable ones with reserved seating, and there has historically been a rail motor car that offers a different experience. Choose according to comfort and budget, and book ahead in peak season.

The journey typically takes around five hours, sometimes more. Do not see that as a problem; it is the point. The train climbs slowly through Himalayan foothills, the plains falling away below, then winds through pine forests and around hillsides with views across deep valleys.

Look out for Barog, where the line’s longest tunnel emerges at a station known for its local legend about the engineer who first attempted the tunnel. The station has historically been a place where trains pause long enough to stretch your legs and buy a cup of tea.

Arrive in Shimla in the early afternoon, check in, and do nothing more ambitious than a walk along the Mall Road in the evening, when locals and visitors stroll between Scandal Point and the Ridge.

Day two: Shimla on foot

Shimla is a walking town. Its main promenade, the Mall Road and the Ridge, is largely closed to private vehicles, and the town’s charm lies in its colonial buildings, steep lanes and the views across the hills.

Start early with a walk up to Jakhoo Temple, on the town’s highest hill, dedicated to Hanuman and known for its monkeys. Keep your belongings, especially glasses and snacks, secure. The views from the top are among the best in Shimla.

Later, visit Christ Church on the Ridge, a nineteenth-century landmark, and walk down to the Gaiety Theatre, a restored Victorian theatre that still hosts performances. In the afternoon, head to the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, housed in the former Viceregal Lodge, where several key meetings in the run-up to Independence took place. Check opening times and guided tour arrangements in advance.

In the evening, browse the Lakkar Bazaar, known for its wooden crafts, and find somewhere warm for dinner.

Day three: a short ride and a slow descent

On your last day, take a short excursion beyond Shimla before heading down. The line continues a little beyond the main station on some services, but most visitors use the morning for a road trip to nearby villages and forests. Mashobra and Naldehra, with its pine-ringed meadow and old golf course, are popular choices. Alternatively, walk the forest trail at Glen or around Summer Hill.

In the afternoon, take the train back down to Kalka, or if you prefer, drive and save the train for the way up. The descent offers a different perspective, with the light changing over the hills in the late afternoon.

Spend the night in Chandigarh again, or connect with an evening train to Delhi.

Where to stay

Shimla has accommodation at every level, from heritage hotels in colonial buildings to simple guesthouses in the lanes below the Mall. If you want to walk everywhere, stay close to the Mall Road and the Ridge, and remember that steep steps may separate your room from the road. Hotels further out offer quieter nights and wider views but usually need a taxi. Wherever you stay, check whether porters or a vehicle can reach the door, especially if you are carrying heavy luggage up from the station.

Why this works better than a checklist

Many visitors try to combine Shimla with Kufri, Narkanda, Manali and more in a single trip. The result is a lot of time in cars on winding roads. By centering three days on the railway, you let the journey itself become the experience, and you see Shimla as a town to walk rather than a list of sights.

Practical notes

Book train seats in advance, especially on weekends and holidays.
The train can be slow and timings can slip; build in slack for onward connections.
Carry warm layers. Shimla can be chilly in the evenings even in spring and autumn, and cold in winter.
Snow occasionally affects services in winter.
The monsoon brings landslides and delays to the region, roughly from July to September.
Wear comfortable shoes. Shimla is steep, and you will be walking a lot.

When to go

March to June offers pleasant weather and long days, though May and June are peak season for domestic tourism. September to November is clear and quieter. December to February can bring snow, which is beautiful but disruptive. The monsoon is lush but unpredictable.

A different kind of luxury

A luxury train offers comfort, service and curated excursions. The Kalka–Shimla line offers something else: a working railway more than a century old, used by locals and visitors alike, with views that no amount of money can improve. For many travellers, that is luxury enough.