Every year, a few travellers arrive at the Nagaland border for the Hornbill Festival without the right paperwork. Some are turned back, some spend an anxious morning sorting it out at a counter, and some get lucky. None of that is necessary. The permit system is straightforward once you understand it, and in most cases you can sort it out online before you travel.
This is a plain-language guide to the Inner Line Permit and related rules as they apply to visitors going to the festival. Rules change, sometimes at short notice, so treat this as a briefing and confirm the current position with the Nagaland government before you travel.
What the Inner Line Permit is
The Inner Line Permit, usually shortened to ILP, is a travel document that Indian citizens from outside the state need in order to enter and stay in Nagaland for a limited period. It dates back to the colonial-era Bengal Eastern Frontier Regulation of 1873, which created an “inner line” restricting entry into certain hill areas. The system was retained after independence and today applies to Nagaland, Arunachal Pradesh, Mizoram and Manipur.
The purpose, as the states describe it, is to protect indigenous communities, their land and their culture by regulating the entry of outsiders. Whatever your view of that, it is the law, and the authorities do check.
Who needs one
In broad terms, Indian citizens who are not residents of Nagaland need an ILP to visit. That includes tourists coming for the Hornbill Festival. Dimapur, the state’s main rail and air gateway, was for a long time outside the ILP system, but it was brought under it in late 2019, so you should now assume you need a permit wherever you enter.
There are exemptions for certain categories of people, such as some government employees on duty, and residents of the state. Check the official guidance if you think you might be exempt rather than assuming.
How to apply
Nagaland offers an online ILP application through an official government portal. In general you fill in your personal details, upload a photograph and identity proof, choose the type and duration of permit and pay the fee online. The permit is issued electronically and you print it or keep it on your phone. Types usually include a short-term tourist permit and longer options for work or extended stays.
We do not quote fees or durations here because they are revised from time to time. Use only the official government portal; there are unofficial websites that charge extra or collect data without issuing anything valid. If in doubt, ask your hotel or a registered tour operator to point you to the correct link.
Permits can also be obtained at certain entry points and offices, but during festival season queues can be long. Applying online a week or two before you travel saves stress.
Carrying it
Carry a printed copy of your ILP and the original identity document you used to apply. Keep a digital copy on your phone too, in case paper gets lost. Checks can happen at entry points, at the railway station, at the airport and occasionally elsewhere. Hotels and homestays may ask to see it at check-in.
Note the validity dates carefully. If your trip changes and you need more time, find out how to extend before your permit expires rather than after.
Foreign travellers
Rules for foreign nationals are different and have shifted several times. For some years the requirement for a Protected Area Permit in Nagaland was relaxed for most foreign tourists, who were instead asked to register with the local Foreigners’ Registration Office within a short period of arrival. Reports from late 2024 indicated that the central government had reintroduced the Protected Area Permit regime for Nagaland, Manipur and Mizoram.
Because of this, foreign visitors planning a trip for the Hornbill Festival should check the current requirements with the Ministry of Home Affairs, the Indian mission that issued their visa, or a registered Nagaland tour operator well ahead of travel, and allow time for any permit to be processed. Nationals of certain countries face additional restrictions.
Beyond Kohima
Your ILP covers the state in general, but some areas, particularly near the international border with Myanmar, may have additional security restrictions or advisories from time to time. If you plan to go beyond Kohima and the villages around it, ask your guide or local police about current conditions. Travel advisories can change because of security or political developments elsewhere in the region, including in neighbouring Manipur.
Arriving by road through Assam
Most visitors to Kohima arrive via Dimapur, which has a railway station and an airport, and then travel by road. Others come by road from Guwahati or elsewhere in Assam. Either way, you cross into Nagaland at a checkpoint where your documents may be examined. Keep them handy rather than packed in the boot.
If you are travelling by train, checks may take place at Dimapur station itself. If you are flying, have your ILP ready when you leave the airport.
If something goes wrong
If you arrive without a valid permit, stay calm and be polite. Officials at entry points deal with this every season. Ask where the nearest permit office is and what you need to apply on the spot. Do not try to argue your way past a checkpoint, and do not accept offers from strangers who claim they can arrange a permit for an extra fee. If you lose your permit during the trip, your hotel or the local police can usually advise on how to get a copy.
A short checklist
- Apply for your ILP on the official Nagaland portal ahead of the festival
- Check the permit dates cover your whole stay, including travel days
- Carry the printed permit and the original ID used to apply
- Keep digital copies on your phone
- Foreign nationals: confirm the current Protected Area Permit or registration rules well before travel
- Ask locally before travelling to border or remote districts
Why it is worth getting right
Permit trouble is one of the few things that can genuinely ruin a Hornbill trip, and it is almost entirely avoidable. Sort it out early, carry what you need and you will cross the inner line without a second thought, free to spend your energy on what you came for: the festival, the villages and the people who welcome visitors every December.
More from Issue 80
- Hornbill index
- Editor’s letter: Nagaland & the Hornbill Festival
- Kohima before the stadium
- A village night that is not the main stage
- Kisama, and the hour you should leave
- Food you will not find on the poster
- A first Hornbill, written by a guest
- What December roads do
- The morning the festival is quiet
- One tribe’s explanation, not a costume list
- A portrait with permission
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